E25 on a Bosch dishwasher means the drain pump area has a problem – a blockage, a jammed impeller, or a pump cover that's worked itself loose. The machine stops, the code appears, and there's often water sitting in the bottom of the tub.
It's one of the more fixable Bosch fault codes. Most E25 errors clear after a filter clean and a pump cover check, without any parts replacement involved.
National Appliance Repairs diagnoses and repairs Bosch dishwashers across Australia. When the DIY steps don't clear it, our technicians carry the parts and diagnostic tools to finish the job in one visit.
What Causes the Bosch Dishwasher E25 Error?
Bosch officially describes E25 as a blocked drain pump or loose/missing drain pump cover. In practice, a few related issues can trigger the same code:
Cause
Likelihood
DIY Fix?
Jammed pump impeller (glass, seed, label)
Very common
Yes
Drain pump cover loose or unseated
Very common
Yes
Blocked or dirty filter
Common
Yes
Kinked drain hose
Moderate
Yes
Failed drain pump motor
Less common
No
Damaged internal check valve
Uncommon
No
E25 is a pump-area code, but a badly blocked filter can produce the same symptoms. Always check the filter first – it takes two minutes and solves more E25 faults than people expect.
Cut power at the wall before you start. Water in the tub may still be hot after an interrupted cycle. Give it 20–30 minutes before reaching into the sump.
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Pull the lower rack out and twist the filter cap counterclockwise to release it. Rinse the assembly under hot running water until it's clear of grease and food residue.
With the filter removed, look into the sump below it. Small debris – glass, pips, foil seals – collects here and jams the impeller from below. It's not always visible; run a gloved finger around the sump floor to catch anything that isn't obvious to the eye. Clear it out fully before moving to the pump cover.
Step 2: Inspect and Reseat the Pump Cover
With the filter removed, the drain pump cover is visible at the bottom of the sump. On most Bosch models it's a round plastic disc that clips into place.
Check whether the cover is sitting flush and correctly seated. A cover that's even slightly dislodged will trigger E25.
If it's loose, use the handle of a teaspoon to gently pry the cover off – it usually unclips with light pressure.
Inspect underneath the cover for any foreign objects resting on or around the pump impeller.
Wearing protective gloves, feel around the impeller area – broken glass is a common find and isn't always visible.
Clear any debris, then press the pump cover firmly back into place until it clicks audibly.
Step 3: Check the Drain Hose
Trace the hose from the machine to the sink drain and feel along it for kinks or flattened sections. The outlet needs a high loop – up toward bench height, then down to the drain connection – to prevent back-siphoning when the pump stops. If the hose looks suspect, pull it off at the drain end and flush water through it before reconnecting.
Step 4: Run a Test Cycle
Reassemble the filter, replace the lower rack, and run a quick or rinse programme. These short cycles reach the drain phase within a few minutes, so you'll know quickly whether the fix has held. No E25 means the problem is resolved.
When the Pump Itself Has Failed
If every previous check comes back clear and E25 keeps appearing, the pump motor or check valve has failed. Listen for grinding or clicking during the drain phase, watch for a pump that runs without shifting water, and note whether the code lands at the same point each time – all three are reliable indicators. Replacing the pump means partial disassembly and working with electrical connections. Get a technician to confirm failure first; it's a straightforward diagnosis with the right equipment and saves ordering parts blind.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does E25 mean on a Bosch dishwasher?
E25 means the drain pump is blocked, the pump cover is loose or unseated, or a foreign object is preventing the pump impeller from spinning. It's a drain-area fault that often resolves after clearing debris and reseating the pump cover.
How do I fix the E25 error on my Bosch dishwasher?
Remove the lower rack, unscrew the filter, and inspect the sump for foreign objects. Check whether the drain pump cover is seated correctly – it should click into place. Clear any debris, reseat the cover, reinstall the filter, and run a short cycle to test.
Is E25 serious on a Bosch dishwasher?
E25 isn't inherently serious, but it shouldn't be ignored. Running the dishwasher with standing water repeatedly can damage the pump motor over time and lead to odours and poor wash results.
What's the difference between E22 and E25 on a Bosch dishwasher?
E22 is a filter fault, indicating the filter needs cleaning. E25 is a pump-area fault, pointing to a blockage in the pump, a loose pump cover, or a failed pump motor. Both involve drainage but at different points in the system.
How do I prevent the E25 error?
Clean the dishwasher filter after every heavy wash cycle or at least once a week. Pre-scrape plates before loading to keep large debris out of the sump. Avoid washing items with loose labels, seeds, or small bones that can reach the pump area.
Book a Technician If Needed
Clearing the pump and filter resolves most E25 faults, but when the pump itself has failed or the check valve is damaged, professional diagnosis saves time and prevents guesswork.National Appliance Repairs services Bosch dishwashers across Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Adelaide, and Perth – with same-day availability in most metro areas and a 12-month warranty on parts.
A washing machine that washes but won't spin leaves clothes too wet to dry in any reasonable time. The spin cycle is where most of the water is extracted – when it fails or runs well below speed, the result is immediately obvious. Some causes are quick to identify and fix at home; others point to a mechanical fault that needs professional attention.
National Appliance Repairs repairs washing machines across Australia, including same-day callouts in Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Perth, and Adelaide.
Common Causes at a Glance
Cause
Front Loader
Top Loader
DIY Fix?
Unbalanced or overloaded drum
Very common
Very common
Yes
Drainage fault (water still in drum)
Common
Common
Yes
Door latch / lid switch fault
Common
Common
Partly
Machine not level
Moderate
Moderate
Yes
Worn or broken drive belt
Moderate
N/A
No
Faulty door lock mechanism
Moderate
N/A
No
Failed motor or motor control board
Less common
Less common
No
Worn drum bearings
Less common
Less common
No
Step 1: Redistribute the Load
An unbalanced load is the most frequent cause of a spin cycle that won't complete. The machine's sensors detect that the weight distribution is uneven and reduce speed – or stop spinning entirely – to prevent the drum from violently oscillating during a high-speed cycle.
Bulky single items are the most common trigger – a duvet, a bath mat, or a pair of jeans washed alone will clump to one side during spin and set off the imbalance detection. Open the door, redistribute the load so weight is spread evenly around the drum, and restart the spin or drain-and-spin programme.
Overloading causes the same result by a different route – too much weight prevents even distribution, the sensors detect the strain, and spin speed is reduced or the cycle aborted entirely. Reduce the load and try again.
Step 2: Check Whether the Machine Has Drained
A washing machine won't spin if there's still water in the drum. The two faults are linked – if the drain pump, filter, or hose has an issue, the machine will complete the wash but abort the drain and spin phases.
Check for standing water at the bottom of the drum after the cycle ends. If there is water present, address the drainage fault first – clean the pump filter, inspect the drain hose for kinks, and refer to ourwashing machine not draining guide for the full process. Once drainage is confirmed, the spin cycle should resume normally.
Step 3: Check the Door Latch or Lid Switch
Front-loaders won't spin unless the door lock has engaged – it's a safety interlock, not a suggestion. Check that the door closes fully and clicks into place, that no clothing is caught in the door seal preventing a complete close, and that the lock mechanism isn't visibly damaged or misaligned.
On top-loaders, the lid switch does the same job. A faulty switch reads the lid as permanently open and blocks both draining and spinning. Close the lid and listen for a click – no click means the switch needs replacing.
Step 4: Level the Machine
A machine that isn't sitting level vibrates excessively during spin and will often trigger its own imbalance detection to abort the cycle. Place a spirit level on top of the machine and adjust the levelling feet until it sits stable on all four corners. Lock the feet once set – spin vibration gradually shifts them over time, particularly on older tiles or uneven laundry floors.
Step 5: Check the Drive Belt (Front Loaders)
Front-loaders that use a belt-and-pulley system can lose the ability to spin entirely if the belt wears through or snaps. The motor will still run – you can hear it – but the drum won't turn. A burning rubber smell after a failed spin attempt, or belt fragments visible through the pump filter access panel, confirm the diagnosis. Replacing the drive belt requires opening the machine cabinet – a technician repair.
Other Mechanical Causes
When load, drainage, door lock, and levelling have all been checked and the drum still won't spin, the fault is inside the machine.
The motor control board is the first suspect – it regulates voltage and spin speed, and a failed board will typically produce error codes alongside the spin failure, which makes it easier to identify.
A seized or burned-out drive motor is less common but produces the same symptom: no spin, no drum movement at all.
Worn drum bearings are worth considering if there's a grinding or rumbling sound during spin that wasn't there before – deteriorating bearings allow the drum to wobble at high speed, and the machine reduces spin or aborts the cycle to protect itself.
None of these are accessible without disassembly, and all three need a technician.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my washing machine fill and wash but not spin?
Usually one of three things: an unbalanced load that triggered the machine's imbalance detection, water still in the drum from a drainage fault, or a door latch or lid switch that isn't engaging. Check them in that order – most spin failures have a straightforward cause before you get to mechanical faults.
Why does my front-loader spin slowly or not reach full speed?
An uneven or overloaded drum and incomplete draining are the two most common reasons. If the load is balanced and drainage is confirmed, worn bearings or a failing motor control board are the next things to investigate.
Can excess detergent prevent spinning?
Yes, indirectly. Too much detergent generates foam that the water level sensor reads as undrained water. The machine holds off on spinning until it's confident the drum is clear. Correct detergent quantity and a rinse cycle to clear existing suds will resolve it.
How do I force a spin cycle on my washing machine?
Use the dedicated spin or drain-and-spin programme with the load redistributed. A machine that aborts the spin immediately after starting is detecting either an imbalance or a drainage issue – fix the underlying cause rather than repeatedly forcing the cycle.
Is it worth repairing a washing machine that won't spin?
For most faults on machines under ten years old, yes. A door lock, drive belt, or drain pump repair is straightforward and significantly cheaper than replacement. Bearing failure or motor failure on an older machine is where the economics shift.National Appliance Repairs gives you an upfront assessment before committing to any repair.
When to Book a Technician
Load redistribution, drainage checks, and levelling are all DIY territory. A faulty door lock, broken drive belt, worn bearings, or failed motor require professional diagnosis.National Appliance Repairs services washing machines across Australia with same-day availability in most metro areas. Call 1300 434 380 or book online.
The E18 error on a Bosch washing machine signals a drainage problem. When the machine can't empty the drum within the expected time, the E18 code appears on the display and the cycle stops – often leaving a drum full of water. On some Bosch models, the same fault appears as F18 or d02, but all three point to the same drainage issue.
The good news is that the E18 is one of the more straightforward Bosch faults to diagnose. A blocked pump filter – sitting at the bottom front of the machine – is the single most common cause, and cleaning it takes about 10 minutes without any tools. This guide walks through every cause, ranked from most likely to least, with instructions for each.
National Appliance Repairs repairs Bosch washing machines across Australia. If the steps below don't clear the fault, our technicians carry Bosch-compatible parts and offer same-day callouts in most metro areas.
What the E18 Code Actually Means
When the drain pump runs but the water level doesn't drop fast enough, the control board calls it. E18 is that call – a timed drainage check that the machine failed, with the cycle halted until the fault is cleared.
Most of the time the cause is mechanical and accessible: a blocked filter, a jammed impeller, or a hose with a kink in it. A drain hose installed too low – letting water siphon back into the drum as fast as the pump removes it – can produce an E18 that looks inexplicable until you check the hose routing. Pump failure is the remaining possibility, and the least common of the three.
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Need This Fixed Today?
Our licensed technicians repair this exact fault every week – fast, reliable, and backed by a workmanship guarantee.
With water still in the drum, drain it manually before accessing the pump filter:
Turn the machine off and unplug it from the power point.
Open the service flap at the bottom front – a small panel that pops off or unclips.
Place a shallow tray under the flap. Inside you'll find a black drainage hose and the pump filter cap.
Remove the drainage hose cap and let the water drain into the container. Repeat until empty.
Take care with hot cycles – the water may still be very hot.
Step 2: Clean the Pump Filter
The filter is behind the same flap as the drainage hose – a counterclockwise-unscrewing circular cap, typically on the right side.
Drain the drum first, then remove the cap and pull the filter out. Rinse it under running water, clearing out hair, lint, coins, or anything else that's collected there. Shine a torch into the housing to check for remaining debris, then spin the pump impeller with your finger. It should turn freely – any resistance points to an object lodged deeper in the pump.
Reinstall the filter and screw it in fully. A loose cap leaks. That's the whole job in most cases, but confirm it's worked by pouring a litre of water into the detergent drawer and running the drain programme before putting a load on.
Step 3: Inspect the Drain Hose
Run your hand along the full length of the hose, feeling for kinks or flattened sections behind the cabinet. Check where the outlet ends – it needs to be 60–100 cm off the floor. Any lower and water siphons back into the drum mid-drain, which produces an E18 that no amount of filter cleaning will fix. Disconnect at the sink end and flush the hose through before reconnecting.
Step 4: Check the Drain Pump
When the filter is clean, the hose is clear, and E18 is still showing, the pump motor is the remaining suspect. Listen during the drain phase – a motor humming without water movement means the impeller is seized. Drainage that works sometimes but not others points to failing motor windings. Replacing the pump means tipping the machine and disconnecting the wiring harnesses. That's a technician job.
Preventing E18 Errors
A few habits keep the drain system clear between services:
Run a monthly empty cycle on the hottest available programme with a washing machine cleaning tablet to dissolve lint and detergent residue.
Check pockets before loading – coins, hairpins, and small clips are the most common items found in blocked pump filters.
Clean the filter every two to three months even if there's no fault code showing.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does E18 mean on a Bosch washing machine?
E18 means the washing machine wasn't able to drain water within the required time. The fault is most commonly caused by a blocked drain pump filter, a kinked drain hose, or a foreign object caught in the pump impeller.
How do I fix the E18 error on my Bosch washing machine myself?
Start by manually draining the drum using the small hose inside the service flap at the bottom front of the machine. Then unscrew the pump filter cap, remove any debris, rinse the filter, and confirm the impeller spins freely. Reinstall the filter securely and run the drain programme to test.
Where is the pump filter on a Bosch washing machine?
The pump filter is behind the service flap at the bottom front right of the machine. The flap either pops off or has a small push-button release. Behind it you'll find both the manual drain hose and the circular filter cap.
Can a kinked hose cause the E18 error?
Yes. A kinked drain hose restricts water flow enough to prevent the pump from clearing the drum in time, triggering E18. Check the hose along its full length from the machine to the wall connection, especially at any bends.
Is E18 the same as F18 on a Bosch washing machine?
Yes – E18 and F18 indicate the same drain fault. Some Bosch models also display this as d02. The cause and troubleshooting process are identical regardless of which version of the code your machine shows.
When to Book a Repair
If the pump filter and drain hose are both clear and the E18 error continues, the fault is inside the machine – most likely the pump motor or the main PCB. These repairs require technical diagnosis and should be handled by a qualified technician.
National Appliance Repairs services Bosch washing machines across Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Adelaide, and Perth. Upfront pricing, genuine parts, and a 12-month warranty on all components – call 1300 434 380 or book online.
E6 on a Fisher & Paykel freestanding dishwasher is a drain fault – the machine couldn't clear the tub within the required time, the cycle stopped, and there's usually standing water at the bottom. A blocked filter is the cause in most cases, which makes it one of the more straightforward fault codes to resolve at home.
National Appliance Repairs services Fisher & Paykel dishwashers across Australia, with same-day appointments in Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Perth, and Adelaide.
What the E6 Code Means
When the E6 error appears, the dishwasher's control board has determined that water drainage failed during the drain phase of the wash cycle. The machine stops to prevent it from cycling through the rest of the programme with an undrained tub.
The drain system on a Fisher & Paykel freestanding dishwasher includes the filter assembly at the bottom of the tub, the drain pump, and the drain hose that connects to the household waste pipe. A restriction anywhere in this path can trigger E6.
Cause
How Common
DIY Fix?
Clogged filter
Very common
Yes
Kinked or blocked drain hose
Common
Yes
Debris in drain pump
Common
Yes
Incorrect drain hose installation
Moderate
Yes
Failed drain pump motor
Less common
No
PCB or wiring fault
Rare
No
Same-day appointments available
Need This Fixed Today?
Our licensed technicians repair this exact fault every week – fast, reliable, and backed by a workmanship guarantee.
Turn the dishwasher off at the power point before reaching into the tub or accessing any components. If the cycle was interrupted recently, the water at the bottom of the tub may still be hot – give it 15–20 minutes before handling.
Step 1: Clean the Filter
Remove the lower rack and twist the filter cap counterclockwise to release the assembly. Separate the coarse outer mesh from the fine inner filter – both can be clogged independently. Rinse both under hot running water until clear; a brief soak in warm water with a small amount of dishwasher detergent will shift a stubborn greasy film. Check the housing in the tub floor for any remaining debris before reinstalling. Seat and lock the filter correctly – an improperly installed filter will trigger further faults. Run a short rinse cycle to confirm E6 has cleared.
Step 2: Inspect the Drain Pump
With the filter out, shine a torch into the sump beneath it. Small debris – glass fragments, foil seals, olive stones – can bypass a damaged or incorrectly seated filter and jam the impeller. Wearing protective gloves, feel carefully around the pump area for anything that isn't visible from above. If you can reach the impeller, check it rotates freely. A seized impeller with an audible motor means the pump needs replacing.
Step 3: Check the Drain Hose
Trace the hose from the back of the machine to the waste trap connection under the sink. Feel for kinks, flattened sections, and areas compressed behind cabinet panels. The hose should run a high loop before dropping to the drain connection to prevent back-siphoning. At the spigot, check for grease and debris accumulation – this junction narrows gradually in older installations and is a common restriction point that doesn't announce itself until drainage fails. If the hose end sits in standing water at the trap, reposition it so it enters the spigot cleanly.
Step 4: Reset and Test
Switch the machine off at the wall for 60 seconds, then back on. Select a short rinse programme and listen through the first drain phase – the pump should be audible and the water level in the tub should drop. No returning E6 means the fault is resolved.
When the Drain Pump Has Failed
Clean filter, clear hose, E6 still appearing – the pump motor has likely failed. Confirming it requires a resistance measurement across the pump windings; a reading significantly outside the expected range indicates winding failure. Replacing the pump means removing access panels and disconnecting wiring – the right point to hand the job to a technician.
Keeping E6 From Coming Back
Most E6 faults are preventable. The filter is the highest-maintenance point – clean it weekly for daily use, or every three to four cycles for lighter loads. A monthly hot empty cycle with a cleaning tablet keeps grease from building up further down the system, inside the pump housing and hose where it's harder to reach. Every six months, disconnect the drain hose at the trap spigot and clear any build-up at the junction. And scraping plates before loading makes a genuine difference – less food entering the machine means less reaching the filter.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does E6 mean on a Fisher & Paykel dishwasher?
Drain fault – the tub didn't clear in time. Blocked filter is the cause most often, followed by a kinked hose or pump debris.
How do I fix the E6 error on my Fisher & Paykel dishwasher?
Remove and separate the filter assembly, rinse both sections under hot water, check the sump for debris, inspect the drain hose for kinks. Fault persists after all that – the pump needs testing.
Why does my Fisher & Paykel dishwasher keep getting E6?
Filter not being cleaned often enough, or a partial hose blockage that's reducing flow without stopping it. Recurring E6 despite clean filters and a clear hose means the pump motor is likely deteriorating.
Is E6 on a Fisher & Paykel dishwasher the same as A3 on a DishDrawer?
Same fault, different machine. E6 is freestanding; A3 is DishDrawer. Troubleshooting logic is identical, machine layout differs.
How often should I clean the filter on a Fisher & Paykel dishwasher?
Weekly for daily use, every one to two weeks for lighter loads. Monthly hot empty cycle on top of that keeps E6 away.
Book a Repair If Needed
A clean filter resolves E6 in most cases. If the fault returns after the filter and hose have both been checked, the drain pump needs professional diagnosis before the situation gets worse.
National Appliance Repairs handles Fisher & Paykel dishwasher repairs across all major Australian cities – genuine parts, upfront pricing, and a 12-month warranty on components. Call 1300 434 380 or book online.
“Water where it shouldn't be” – that's what the E15 code on the display of your Bosch dishwasher is telling you. Specifically, the sensor in the base tray of your Bosch dishwasher has detected moisture -- and as a result, the machine's AquaStop flood protection has kicked in, cut off the water supply, and left everything at a standstill.
It won't clear on its own. The error stays until the source of the water is found and dealt with.
National Appliance Repairs sees this fault regularly across homes in Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Adelaide, and Perth. Some are straightforward. Some aren't. Here's how to tell the difference.
What AquaStop Actually Does
The AquaStop system is standard on most Bosch dishwashers. It’s a double-walled inlet hose that sits at the back of the machine, plus a float switch lives in the base pan. The moment water touches that float switch -- even a small amount -- it sends a signal to the control board to close off the inlet and hold the drain pump running. The E15 code appears on the display.
Bosch describes this as lifelong flood protection. The trade-off is that it's sensitive by design, so even minor seepage that has pooled over time will trigger it.
What Causes the E15 Error
Several different failure points can let water into the base pan:
Worn door seal: Daily use degrades the rubber gasket around the door edge. Water begins escaping during the wash cycle and runs down into the base. This is the most common cause.
Loose or cracked inlet hose: The connection points where the hose meets the machine can loosen over time, or the hose itself can crack. Water drips into the base rather than the tub.
Leaking sump seal: The sump sits at the very base of the tub. Its seal wears gradually and is one of the more frequent E15 culprits in older Bosch machines.
Inlet valve not closing fully: A valve that sticks open allows water to continue trickling in after the fill phase ends. Over multiple cycles, enough accumulates in the base to trip the float.
Cracked tub: Less common, but physical damage to the dishwasher's interior can allow water to bypass the tub entirely.
Faulty float switch: Occasionally the switch itself is the problem -- stuck or corroded, it reads a leak that isn't there. A technician can test this quickly.
Same-day appointments available
Need This Fixed Today?
Our licensed technicians repair this exact fault every week – fast, reliable, and backed by a workmanship guarantee.
One piece of advice that circulates in Australian home improvement forums is to tilt the dishwasher forward to drain the base pan. Don't do this. Tilting shifts the pooled water toward the machine's electrical components at the back, which can turn a manageable repair into a far more expensive one.
When E15 appears:
Switch the machine off at the power point
Turn off the water supply tap behind the dishwasher
Leave the machine upright -- do not run another cycle
Put towels down if there's visible moisture on the floor around the base
What You Can Check Yourself
A few checks are worth doing before calling anyone out:
Run your finger along the door seal, looking for tears, flat spots where the rubber has lost its shape, or food and detergent residue preventing a full seal
Follow the inlet hose from the back of the machine and check for kinks, cracks, or loose connections at either end
Look around the base of the machine for any sign of where moisture is originating
That's roughly where DIY ends for E15. Accessing the sump seal, testing the inlet valve, or replacing the float switch all require removing machine panels and working near live electrical components. Under Australia's Model Work Health and Safety Laws, this work should be handled by a licensed technician.
What a Technician Does on an E15 Job
Stage
What Happens
Initial inspection
Hoses, door seal, and base pan are checked for moisture and obvious damage
Dry-out
Any remaining water in the base pan is carefully removed
Component testing
Float switch, inlet valve, and sump seal are tested individually
Leak identification
Water is run through the machine to locate the exact leak point
Repair
The faulty part -- seal, hose, valve, or switch -- is replaced
Test cycle
A full cycle confirms the leak is gone and E15 doesn't return
Keeping E15 Away
Regular habits that make E15 less likely:
Wipe the door seal periodically to stop detergent and food residue from degrading the rubber
Run a hot maintenance cycle monthly with a dishwasher cleaner -- it flushes mineral deposits from hoses and the inlet valve
Every six months, pull the machine out slightly and check the inlet hose connection at the back for loosening, particularly if the dishwasher vibrates noticeably during operation
If the machine gets heavy daily use, a service check every two years is worth doing before a fault develops
FAQ
What does E15 mean on a Bosch dishwasher?
The AquaStop flood protection has detected water in the base pan. The water inlet shuts off automatically. The error won't clear until the source of the water is identified and fixed.
Can I reset E15 and keep using the dishwasher?
Resetting clears the display, not the leak. Running the machine again will almost certainly retrigger E15 and risks more water reaching your floor and cabinetry. Get the leak fixed first.
Is E15 always an actual leak?
Usually. In rare cases a faulty or stuck float switch triggers E15 with no real leak present. A technician can confirm this by testing the switch directly.
How long does a Bosch E15 repair take?
If the technician has the right part -- door seals and inlet hoses are commonly stocked on the van -- the repair is typically done on the same visit. Parts that need to be ordered may mean a return visit within a few days.
Does Australian consumer law cover an E15 repair?
It depends on the cause. Manufacturing defects are covered under the Australian Consumer Law, which requires goods to be of acceptable quality and last a reasonable time. Normal seal wear on a heavily used older machine is generally a maintenance matter rather than a warranty claim.
Conclusion
E15 is one of the Bosch dishwasher faults you shouldn't put off. The AquaStop system stopped the flooding -- but the leak is still there, and the next cycle will just trigger it again. Get the door seal, hoses, and sump inspected before the machine runs again.
If you're in Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Perth, or Adelaide, National Appliance Repairs can have a qualified technician to your door the same day, with upfront pricing and a 12-month warranty on all parts.
