You open the dishwasher after a cycle and find water sitting in the bottom of the tub, E22 on the display. Nine times out of ten, the fix is cleaning a filter that hasn't been touched in months. This one you can usually handle yourself.
Here's what's happening and how to sort it out. For repairs that go beyond a blocked filter, National Appliance Repairs services Bosch dishwashers across Australia's major cities, with same-day availability and a 12-month parts warranty.
What E22 Actually Means
The E22 code fires when the pressure sensor detects standing water in the sump -- the basin at the base of the tub beneath the filter -- after the drain phase. The machine stops the cycle rather than keep running with water it can't shift.
It's worth knowing how this differs from other drainage codes. E22 points squarely at the filter and sump area. E24 is a drain path issue -- a kinked hose, blocked connection, or check-valve problem. If you're seeing E24, the filter clean below won't fix it.
Same-day appointments available
Need This Fixed Today?
Our licensed technicians repair this exact fault every week – fast, reliable, and backed by a workmanship guarantee.
Turn the dishwasher off at the power outlet. Pull out the bottom rack. At the base of the tub you'll find two filters: a cylindrical coarse filter on top and a flat fine mesh filter beneath it. Rotate the coarse filter anti-clockwise and lift it out, then remove the mesh filter underneath.
Rinse both under warm running water and scrub with a soft brush -- an old toothbrush is fine. White chalky deposits are mineral scale. If there's significant buildup, soak both filters in warm water with a splash of white vinegar for 20 minutes before scrubbing. Reseat the mesh filter first, then the cylindrical one, turning it clockwise until it locks.
Run a short cycle and see if the code clears.
If the Filter Was Clean
A clean filter with a returning E22 narrows things down:
Non-return valve: A small rubber or plastic flap near the drain outlet. If it's jammed open by a food fragment, water backflows into the sump after each drain attempt. Check it moves freely.
Drain hose: Trace the hose from the back of the machine to the connection under the sink. Look for kinks, sharp bends, or compression against cabinetry. Also check the hose end isn't sitting submerged in water under the sink -- that creates a siphon that blocks drainage.
Pump area: With the filters removed, shine a torch into the sump cavity. Glass fragments and small plastic pieces sometimes get past the filter and jam the pump impeller. If you can see debris, remove it carefully with needle-nose pliers before reassembling.
Why Some People Get E22 Repeatedly
Two things make E22 a recurring problem rather than a one-off:
Water hardness. Mineral content in Australian tap water varies considerably by region. Adelaide and Perth sit at the harder end, and homes there tend to see scale accumulate in filters and drain components faster than the manufacturer's maintenance schedule accounts for. The Australian Drinking Water Guidelines outline hardness ranges across the country -- if your area runs hard, clean the filter more often than the manual suggests and run a descale cycle monthly. Running the spray arms under the tap when you do the filter clean is worth doing too; the holes block with the same mineral deposits.
Detergent and rinse aid habits. Too much detergent leaves residue that accumulates on the filter mesh. Skipping rinse aid in a hard-water area accelerates scale buildup on both the filter and the pump. Neither fix is expensive.
Maintenance to Keep E22 Away
Task
Frequency
Why
Clean filter
Monthly (fortnightly in hard-water areas)
Prevents food and scale blockages
Run a cleaner or descale cycle
Every 1--2 months
Clears mineral buildup from filter, pump, and hoses
Check drain hose for kinks
Every 6 months
Restricted hoses cause slow or incomplete drainage
Top up rinse aid
Every 1--2 months
Reduces scale on filter mesh and pump
Inspect sump area
Monthly
Catches debris before it reaches the pump
When to Call a Technician
Clean filter, clear drain hose, no visible blockage in the sump -- and E22 is still there. At that point the fault is in a component: the non-return valve may have failed outright rather than just being blocked, the pump chamber clip may need reseating, or the drain pump itself is struggling. Any of these needs a technician. Working near the pump with the machine live is an electrocution risk, and the Australian Consumer Law is worth knowing about if the fault turns out to be a manufacturing defect on a machine that isn't old.
Unusual sounds during the drain cycle -- grinding, rattling, a pump that hums but doesn't shift water -- are useful information for the technician and worth noting before they arrive.
FAQ
Can I run the dishwasher with E22 showing?
No. The cycle is locked until drainage is restored. Running it won't override the error.
How long does clearing E22 take?
Cleaning the filter is 10 to 15 minutes. Checking the drain hose and sump adds another 20 to 30. If none of that works, it's time to book a technician.
Will vinegar dissolve the scale on the filter?
Yes. Soak the filter in white vinegar for 20 to 30 minutes and most scale comes off with light scrubbing. It won't damage the mesh.
How do I know if it's E22 or E24?
E22 is standing water in the sump with the filter as the primary suspect. E24 means water can't exit through the drain line -- kinked hose, improper installation, or a drain pump or check-valve fault. Different parts of the system.
Does the 12-month parts warranty cover E22 repairs?
National Appliance Repairs backs all repair work with a 12-month parts warranty and 3-month labour warranty. If a replaced part fails within that period, it's covered.
Conclusion
Most E22 errors come down to a filter that's overdue for a clean. Pull it out, scrub it, check the sump for debris, reseat everything, and run a cycle. If the code returns, the non-return valve or drain pump needs a look. National Appliance Repairs has Bosch-experienced technicians across Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Perth, and Adelaide -- call 1300 434 380 to book, same-day where available.
Fisher & Paykel's dishwasher range spans two distinct formats – the freestanding models and the DishDrawer™ – and the fault code system reflects that. F codes cover freestanding models and fundamental system functions; A codes appear predominantly on DishDrawer machines. Both series work the same way: one code, one system, a clear starting point for diagnosis.
National Appliance Repairs services the full Fisher & Paykel range across Australia, with same-day appointments in Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Perth, and Adelaide. Their technicians carry genuine parts to most jobs, completing the majority of repairs in a single visit.
How Fisher & Paykel Dishwasher Codes Work
A code appears on the display when the machine detects a fault and halts the current programme. In most cases you can attempt a soft reset – turn the machine off at the power point for 60 seconds, then back on. If the same code reappears, the underlying fault needs to be addressed. Do not continue running the machine when certain codes – particularly F1, A3 with flooding, or E6 – are active, as this can cause secondary damage.
This page covers the codes most commonly seen on Australian machines: F30, E6, A3, A6, and F1.
Same-day appointments available
Need This Fixed Today?
Our licensed technicians repair this exact fault every week – fast, reliable, and backed by a workmanship guarantee.
F30 means water has accumulated in the base pan and triggered the flood switch. It could be a one-off overflow or the symptom of something more persistent – a reset will tell you which.
Switch the machine off and back on at the power point. If the code clears and stays clear, monitor the machine over a few cycles. If F30 keeps returning, inspect the drain hose for kinks and check where it connects to the plumbing trap spigot under the sink – debris builds up at that junction and partially blocks outflow over time. A base pan that stays wet despite a clear drain hose points to a slow internal leak requiring a technician.
E6 – Drain Fault (Freestanding Models)
E6 on freestanding Fisher & Paykel dishwashers means the machine couldn't drain water within the set time. The filter at the bottom of the tub is the most common cause – it captures food particles from every wash cycle and needs to be cleaned regularly. To address E6:
Remove the lower basket and take out the filter assembly.
Rinse the filter thoroughly under hot running water.
Inspect the drain pump for any debris that has made it past the filter.
Check the drain hose for kinks and confirm it isn't immersed in standing water at the waste connection.
If cleaning the filter and checking the hose doesn't resolve E6, the drain pump itself may have failed.
A3 – Drain Fault (DishDrawer)
A3 is a drainage fault. The most reliable place to start is the connection between the drain hose and the household trap spigot under the sink – food residue accumulates there and can reduce outflow significantly without blocking it completely. Trace the hose along its full run for kinks or compression, particularly at bends near the cabinet base. If the hose and connection are both clear, the drain pump itself may be obstructed or failing.
A6 – Wash Pressure / Excess Foam (DishDrawer)
A6 indicates insufficient wash pressure or excess foam during the cycle. A spray arm that isn't correctly seated disrupts water circulation enough to trigger the code; check that it clips firmly into its mount and rotates without resistance. If foam is the cause – most commonly from using liquid dish soap instead of dishwasher tablets – run an empty rinse cycle to clear it before reloading with the correct detergent.
F1 – Flood Switch / Leak Detected
F1 means water has reached the base pan and triggered the flood sensor. It got there one of three ways: an internal leak, an overfill, or detergent foam backing up below the tub.
Check the floor. No water visible – over-foaming is likely, switch off and let it dry out fully before restarting. Water on the floor or under the machine – disconnect power and water immediately. That's a leak requiring a technician to find and fix before the machine runs again.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does F30 mean on a Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer?
F30 means the flood switch in the base of the DishDrawer has been activated. Water has accumulated in the base pan, typically due to a drainage issue or an internal leak. Resetting the machine and inspecting the drain hose is the first step.
What does E6 mean on a Fisher & Paykel dishwasher?
E6 is a drain fault on freestanding Fisher & Paykel models. The machine failed to drain within the required time. Start by cleaning the filter at the bottom of the tub, then check the drain hose for kinks.
What causes the A3 error on a Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer?
A3 is a drainage fault specific to the DishDrawer range. The drain hose is frequently blocked or kinked at the connection point to the household plumbing trap spigot. Check this junction first, then trace the full length of the hose for any compression.
Why does my Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer show A6?
A6 indicates insufficient wash pressure or excess foam. Check that the spray arm is correctly seated and rotating freely, and confirm you're using dishwasher-specific tablets rather than liquid dish soap or general detergent.
How do I reset a Fisher & Paykel dishwasher?
Turn the machine off at the wall power point, leave it for 60 seconds, then turn it back on. If the fault code reappears, the underlying cause needs to be diagnosed and repaired.
Book a Fisher & Paykel Dishwasher Repair
If the steps above haven't resolved the fault,National Appliance Repairs services the full Fisher & Paykel dishwasher range – freestanding and DishDrawer – across Australia. Genuine parts, upfront pricing before any work begins, and a 12-month warranty on components replaced. Call 1300 434 380 or book a time online.
The F30 error on a Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer means the flood switch inside the appliance has been activated. Water has accumulated in the base pan – the sealed cavity beneath the drawer mechanism – and the machine has stopped operating to prevent further water damage. It's one of the more alarming-looking fault codes, but in many cases it's triggered by a relatively minor issue: a blocked drain hose, an overflow from a single cycle, or the residual effect of a drainage restriction that was recently resolved.
National Appliance Repairs services Fisher & Paykel DishDrawers across Australia. If you can't clear the F30 through the steps below, their technicians can diagnose the root cause and repair it in a single visit.
Why the F30 Code Appears
F30 is specific to Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer models. The flood switch – also called the base overfill switch – sits in the base pan and remains inactive during normal operation. The moment water enters the base, the switch closes and the machine stops. It's a protective mechanism, not a fault in itself; the fault is whatever allowed water to reach the base pan.
Cause
How Common
Can I Fix It?
Blocked or kinked drain hose
Common
Yes
Debris at the drain hose–trap spigot connection
Common
Yes
One-off overflow from a large load
Common
Yes (dry out and reset)
Slow internal leak from hose or fitting
Moderate
Partly
Failed inlet valve causing continuous fill
Less common
No
Cracked tub or failed door seal
Uncommon
No
Same-day appointments available
Need This Fixed Today?
Our licensed technicians repair this exact fault every week – fast, reliable, and backed by a workmanship guarantee.
Switch the DishDrawer off at the power point, leave it for 60 seconds, then turn it back on. If F30 clears and stays clear across a few cycles, the overflow was a one-off. If the code comes back consistently, work through the steps below.
Step 2: Inspect the Drain Hose
The drain hose is the most common cause of recurring F30. A kink or blockage at the waste trap spigot under the sink prevents proper drainage, backing water up until it reaches the base pan.
Pull the DishDrawer forward if possible, or access the hose from below the benchtop. Trace it from the machine's drain outlet to the trap spigot, feeling for kinks, sharp bends, or sections compressed behind a cabinet panel. At the spigot connection, disconnect the hose and clear any grease or debris from the junction – this point narrows over time without showing obvious signs from above. Reconnect securely. If the hose is cracked or deteriorating along its length, replace it.
Step 3: Dry Out the Base Pan
The flood switch won't reset while moisture remains in the base pan, regardless of whether the drainage fault has been fixed. Tilt the machine slightly forward to encourage pooled water toward the front where it can evaporate, or remove the kickboard panel to improve air circulation underneath. The pan can take several hours to dry completely – F30 persisting after overnight drying suggests water is still present inside.
Don't run the machine while F30 is active. Water in the base pan puts the control electronics directly at risk.
Step 4: Check for an Internal Leak
If F30 returns after multiple cycles despite a clear drain hose, there is a slow leak somewhere inside the machine. Possible sources include:
A deteriorated door seal or gasket around the drawer opening, allowing water to escape during the wash cycle.
A cracked or split hose inside the machine body.
A faulty inlet valve that allows a small continuous flow of water even when the machine isn't running.
A failed pump seal.
Locating an internal leak requires access to the machine's internal components. This is a professional repair – further disassembly without the right tools risks making the problem worse.
Preventing F30 from Recurring
Regular maintenance can eliminate most causes of F30:
Clean the drain hose connection at the trap spigot every three to six months.
Use the correct detergent – dishwasher tablets formulated for automatic dishwashers. Liquid dish soap generates foam that can overwhelm the drain system and cause overflow.
Run a maintenance cycle with a dishwasher cleaning tablet monthly to reduce grease build-up inside the drain path.
Don't overload the DishDrawer. Water can splash over the drawer seal during the wash cycle if the load is too large or items are positioned incorrectly.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does F30 mean on a Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer?
F30 means the flood switch in the base pan has been activated. Water has entered the base cavity – most commonly from a blocked drain hose, a restricted waste pipe connection, or an internal leak.
How do I reset the F30 error on my Fisher & Paykel dishwasher?
Switch the machine off at the power point for 60 seconds, then back on. If the code clears and stays clear, the overflow was isolated. If F30 returns, inspect the drain hose and waste connection, and allow the base pan to dry completely before running the machine again.
Can I run my DishDrawer while F30 is showing?
No. Water in the base pan is in direct proximity to the control electronics. Don't attempt to restart the machine until the pan is dry and the cause has been addressed.
How long does it take for the F30 error to clear after fixing the cause?
The flood switch resets automatically once the base pan is dry. In a warm, ventilated kitchen this typically takes a few hours. F30 persisting after overnight drying suggests water is still present inside.
Is F30 the same as F1 on Fisher & Paykel dishwashers?
Both indicate flood switch activation, but F30 is specific to DishDrawer models and F1 appears on freestanding Fisher & Paykel dishwashers. The troubleshooting process is essentially the same for both.
When to Book a Technician
If the drain hose and waste connection are clear, the base pan has dried, but F30 keeps returning – there is an internal leak that requires professional diagnosis. Attempting to trace and repair an internal leak without appliance servicing experience can cause further damage.
National Appliance Repairs specialises in Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer repairs across Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Perth, and Adelaide. Their technicians are equipped to locate leaks, replace seals and hoses, and restore your machine to full operation. Call 1300 434 380 or book online.
A Bosch dishwasher that stops mid-cycle and flashes a code isn't being difficult. It's telling you exactly what's wrong, in a language most people have never learned to read. Codes E15, E22, E24 and E25 are four of the most common faults Bosch owners run into, and they all point to real, fixable problems rather than a dying machine.
This guide breaks down what each code means, what typically causes it, and which ones are safe to check yourself before calling in a professional. National Appliance Repairs services Bosch dishwashers across Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Adelaide and Perth, so we see these codes on a regular basis.
How Bosch Error Codes Work
Bosch dishwashers use a control board that constantly monitors water level, drainage, and leak sensors. When something falls outside the expected range, the board locks the wash cycle and displays a two-digit code so the fault can be identified quickly rather than guessed at. Bosch shares this system across its own dishwashers and those made by sister brand Siemens, which is why the codes look similar across both.
E15: Leak Protection Has Been Triggered
E15 means the dishwasher's leak protection system, sometimes called AquaStop, has detected water sitting in the base pan underneath the tub. Rather than let that water spread, the machine shuts everything down.
Common causes include:
A worn or damaged door seal letting water escape during the wash
A cracked or loose hose connection
Overfilling caused by a stuck float switch
Excess suds from using the wrong detergent, causing overflow
If E15 appears once and doesn't return, it may have been a one-off overflow. If it keeps coming back, there's an active leak somewhere in the system, and continuing to run the dishwasher risks water damage to your kitchen floor and cabinetry.
E22: The Filter Is Blocked
E22 is usually the simplest of the four to resolve. It means the fine filter at the base of the tub has become clogged with food debris, grease, or limescale, restricting water flow enough that the machine can't complete its cycle properly.
Regular filter cleaning prevents this from recurring. Bosch recommends removing and rinsing the filter assembly every few weeks, more often in households that don't pre-scrape plates.
E24: Drainage Failure
E24 shows up when the dishwasher can't drain water out at the end of a cycle. The most common causes are:
A clogged drain filter or hose
A kinked or incorrectly installed drain hose causing siphoning
Debris caught in the drain pump
Because E24 and E25 both relate to drainage, it's worth checking the filter first (see E22 above), since a blocked filter often triggers both codes over time.
E25: Drain Pump Blocked or Disconnected
E25 points specifically to the drain pump. Either something is physically blocking the impeller, such as a piece of glass or a stray label, or the pump cover has come loose or wasn't reattached correctly after a previous clean.
This one usually requires removing the pump cover to inspect the impeller directly, which is a fiddly job and easy to get wrong on newer VarioDrawer or premium quiet models where components are more tightly packed.
Bosch Error Code Quick Reference
Code
What It Means
Typical Cause
DIY Difficulty
E15
Leak detected in base pan
Worn door seal, loose hose, overfilling
Moderate -- safe to inspect, risky to ignore
E22
Filter blocked
Food debris, grease, limescale buildup
Easy -- regular maintenance task
E24
Water won't drain
Blocked filter, kinked hose, siphoning
Moderate -- often resolves with filter clean
E25
Drain pump blocked or loose
Debris in impeller, loose pump cover
Harder -- requires opening the pump housing
When to Call a Professional Instead
Cleaning a filter or checking a hose for kinks is reasonable weekend maintenance. Call a technician if:
The same code returns after you've cleaned the filter and checked the hoses
You see active dripping, pooling water, or corrosion around the base
The dishwasher won't start at all after the fault
You're not comfortable pulling the unit out from under the bench
Persistent E15 in particular shouldn't be left to run its course. A leak that keeps triggering the safety system is telling you it's still there, and letting a dishwasher run with an active leak risks water damage that costs far more than the repair itself.
While National Appliance Repairs isn't an official Bosch authorised service centre, our technicians are trained on Bosch's engineering and carry genuine parts for common faults across our vans. Many drainage and filter-related repairs on our dishwasher repair service are completed the same day, and every repair carries our 12-month parts and 3-month labour warranty.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I keep using my Bosch dishwasher if E22 keeps coming back after I clean the filter?
No. If E22 returns after a proper filter clean, there's likely a secondary blockage in the spray arm, drain hose, or pump that a filter clean alone won't fix. Continued cycles with a partial blockage can strain the pump motor.
Is E15 dangerous to ignore?
It can lead to water pooling under the dishwasher, which risks damage to flooring and cabinetry, and in some cases electrical components near the base of the unit. If E15 reappears after drying the base pan, treat it as an active leak rather than a one-off.
Are Bosch and Siemens dishwasher error codes the same?
Largely, yes. Bosch and Siemens are both part of the BSH Group and share much of the same control board platform, so the core E-codes generally match across both brands, though some model-specific sub-codes can differ.
How much does it cost to fix a Bosch dishwasher error code?
It depends on the cause. A filter clean or hose adjustment is typically low-cost, while a drain pump replacement or door seal repair is more substantial. Call 1300 434 380 for a free phone consultation and a ballpark estimate before booking.
Will fixing an error code myself void my Bosch warranty?
Basic maintenance like cleaning the filter generally won't affect your warranty. More invasive repairs, especially anything involving the pump or control board, are best left to a professional to avoid voiding cover or causing further damage.
Getting Your Bosch Dishwasher Back on Track
Most of these four codes trace back to a handful of causes: a blocked filter, a worn seal, or debris in the drain system. Regular filter cleaning prevents a good portion of these faults from happening in the first place, and catching a leak code early is far cheaper than dealing with water damage later.
If your Bosch dishwasher keeps throwing the same code after basic troubleshooting, National Appliance Repairs services Bosch appliances across Australia's metro areas with same-day appointments where available.
Your LG washing machine has stopped mid-cycle with a two-letter code on the display. Before you start worrying, it's worth knowing that LG's system is more readable than most -- the letters usually abbreviate the fault. OE is outlet error. IE is inlet error. UE is unbalanced error. The pattern holds across the range, which means a quick read of the code often tells you roughly what's wrong before you've done anything else.
Some of these you can fix in five minutes. Others… you’ll need to call one of our technicians at National Appliance Repairs. The difference matters, so this guide covers each code -- what it means, what's likely causing it, and what to do next.
How the Error Code System Works
LG washers run sensors throughout the machine monitoring water intake, water levels, drum balance, door lock status, motor speed, and temperature. When a reading falls outside expected parameters for long enough, the control board stops the cycle and shows a code. The machine isn't broken in all cases -- sometimes it's flagging a temporary condition. But the code won't clear until the condition is resolved.
Same-day appointments available
Need This Fixed Today?
Our licensed technicians repair this exact fault every week – fast, reliable, and backed by a workmanship guarantee.
The most commonly reported LG error in Australia. OE means water isn't draining within the timeframe the machine expects, so it stops to prevent overflow.
Start here:
Clean the drain pump filter. On most LG front-loaders it's behind a small access panel at the bottom front of the machine. Lay a towel down, unscrew the filter cap slowly, let the residual water drain out, and clear any lint, coins, or debris from the filter housing.
Check the drain hose at the back for kinks or sharp bends that restrict flow.
Check that the drain hose isn't inserted too far into the standpipe -- this can create a siphon effect that interferes with drainage.
LG's own support documentation recommends cleaning the drain filter monthly. Most OE errors clear after a filter clean. If the code returns with a clean filter and clear hose, the drain pump motor has likely failed and needs replacement by a technician.
IE -- Water Inlet Error
IE (shown as 1E on some older models) means the tub isn't filling with water within the allocated time. Usually a supply issue rather than anything wrong with the machine itself.
Check these first:
The tap at the back of the machine -- make sure it's fully open, not just partially turned
The inlet hose for kinks or bends
The mesh filter screens where the hose connects to the machine -- sediment and mineral deposits clog these over time, particularly in harder-water areas like regional Western Australia and parts of regional Queensland
Water pressure at the mains -- low pressure can trigger IE even with everything else correct
The Australian Drinking Water Guidelines note considerable variation in water mineral content across Australian states. In hard-water areas, inlet filter screens need cleaning more frequently than manufacturers typically suggest.
If supply and pressure check out fine, the inlet valve itself has likely failed. That's a parts replacement job.
UE -- Unbalanced Error
UE means the drum's load is distributed unevenly and the machine won't spin at full speed because of the vibration risk.
A lowercase "uE" means the machine is still trying to self-correct -- it'll add a small amount of water, agitate to redistribute the clothes, drain, and attempt spin again. Let it work through this before intervening. An uppercase "UE" means it failed three times and needs your help.
Open the door, redistribute the clothes evenly around the drum, and restart. Check the machine is level -- use a spirit level across the top and adjust the leg height with a spanner if needed.
If UE keeps appearing with well-distributed loads and a level machine, worn shock absorbers (front-loaders) or suspension rods (top-loaders) are the likely culprit. That's a mechanical repair. See our dedicated LG Washing Machine UE Error guide for a full walkthrough.
LE -- Motor Error
LE points to a problem with the rotor position sensor or the motor assembly. The sensor tells the control board the exact speed and position of the drum motor so it can fire the right induction coils in sequence. When the reading is missing or wrong, the machine stops rather than run the motor blind.
Not a DIY repair. Diagnosing LE involves testing the stator, rotor, and position sensor with a multimeter, and replacing whichever component has failed.
dE -- Door Error
The door interlock is a hard safety requirement -- the machine won't run with the door open or unlatched. A dE code means the control board hasn't received confirmation that the door is properly closed.
Try these:
Open the door and close it again firmly
Check for laundry caught in the door seal stopping it from closing fully
Inspect the door seal for damage
Look at the latch mechanism for wear or breakage
A worn or broken latch is a single-visit repair for a technician.
tE -- Temperature Sensor Fault
The thermistor monitors water temperature throughout the cycle. A tE code means it's reading outside the expected range -- or not reading at all. Without reliable temperature data, the machine won't heat water correctly, which matters most for cycles that rely on heat to sanitise -- towels, bed linen, nappies. This is a component replacement job.
FE -- Overfill Error
FE means the machine has detected water above the expected level in the drum. The usual cause is an inlet valve that isn't closing fully, allowing water to keep entering after the fill phase ends. A faulty water level pressure sensor can also produce FE. Turn the machine off at the power point if water looks visibly high in the drum, and call a technician before running another cycle.
PF -- Power Failure
PF records that the machine lost power mid-cycle -- a brief outage, a tripped breaker, or an accidental unplug. It's a record, not a fault. Press Power, restart the cycle, and it should run normally.
CL -- Child Lock
Not an error. CL means the child lock feature is active and the buttons are disabled. To turn it off, hold the temperature and eco/rapid buttons simultaneously for about three to four seconds. The exact combination varies by model -- check your manual if this doesn't work.
FAQ
How do I reset an LG washing machine error code?
Turn the machine off at the power point, wait 30 seconds, and turn it back on. If the error reappears straight away, the fault is still present and a reset won't help.
Why does my LG washing machine keep showing OE?
A blocked drain pump filter is the cause in most cases. Clean it first. If OE returns with a clean filter and clear drain hose, the pump motor has likely failed.
Can I use my LG washing machine with a dE error showing?
No. The machine won't start a cycle with the door unconfirmed closed -- it's a safety interlock. Fix the latch or seal before running a cycle.
What's the difference between tE and LE on an LG washer?
tE is a temperature sensor fault; LE is a motor or rotor position sensor fault. Both require a technician.
My LG washer shows CL -- is something wrong?
No. Child lock is active. Hold the relevant buttons for three to four seconds to turn it off.
Conclusion
LG's error code system rewards a quick read before reaching for the phone. OE, IE, and UE cover the majority of call-outs and most have a user-level fix to try first -- clean the drain filter, check the supply tap, redistribute the load. Motor faults (LE), sensor faults (tE, PE), and overfill errors (FE) are different -- those need a technician before the machine is run again. Wherever you are in Australia, National Appliance Repairs has LG-experienced technicians available across all major cities, with same-day bookings and a 12-month warranty on every part.
