Good news first. If your DishDrawer is showing U1 or U6, Fisher & Paykel has already told you this is something you can fix. The U series exists specifically to separate the problems an owner can resolve from the ones that need a technician.
The E series is the other list, and it does not have that property. National Appliance Repairs services Fisher & Paykel appliances across five capitals, and DishDrawers are one of the appliances where knowing which list you are looking at saves a callout fee.
U codes and E codes are different lists
Fisher & Paykel's DishDrawer user guide splits its fault codes into two groups.
U codes describe a condition you can correct. The drawer will resume its programme once you have. There is no part to replace and no panel to remove.
E codes describe component and electronics faults. Flood detection, motor failure, temperature sensor faults, heating element failure, lid faults, drying fan faults and electronics faults all sit in the E group.
Code
What Fisher & Paykel says it means
Group
U1
No water. The water supply has not been turned on
Owner
U4
A fault in the other drawer is preventing use of this drawer
Owner
U6
The spray arm has loosened or come off its mounting, or water pressure is too low
Owner
E1
Flood detected
Technician
E2
Motor fault
Technician
E3
Temperature sensor fault
Technician
E4
Heating element failed
Technician
E5
Fault with the internal lid
Technician
E6
Fault with the drying fan
Technician
E7, E8
Electronics faults
Technician
Fixing a U1
U1 means the drawer asked for water and did not get any.
Turn the water supply on at the tap under the sink, then press the start button to resume the wash programme. That is Fisher & Paykel's stated fix, and in most cases it is the whole story: somebody isolated the water for a plumbing job, or a tap was knocked closed during a cupboard clean-out.
If the tap is already open, work outward:
Check the inlet hose for kinks behind or under the cabinetry.
Check the inlet filter at the hose connection for grit and scale.
Check whether the rest of the house has water. Mains work in the street produces U1 as reliably as a closed tap does.
Check the other drawer on a double unit. If it also refuses to fill, the problem is the supply, not the drawer.
A U1 that persists with a confirmed open supply and a clear hose points at the inlet valve, and that is a service call.
Fixing a U6
U6 has two possible causes, and Fisher & Paykel names both.
The spray arm has come loose
This is the common one and it takes a minute. Open the drawer, look at the spray arm in the base, and check whether it has lifted off its mounting or worked loose. Refit it following the instructions in the user maintenance section of your guide, close the drawer, and press start to resume.
While the drawer is open, lift the spray arm and shake any foreign material out of it, then rinse it under running water. Blocked spray arm holes will not necessarily throw a code, but they will leave dishes dirty, and debris in the arm is often what worked it loose in the first place.
Also check nothing loaded in the drawer is fouling the arm's rotation. Spin it by hand through a full turn. A tall item or a fallen utensil stopping the arm produces the same result as a loose one.
The water pressure is too low
If the spray arm is seated correctly and rotating freely and U6 still appears, the second cause applies. Fisher & Paykel notes that low incoming water pressure can trigger this code, and that a 4 litre valve may need to be installed on the water supply to correct it.
That is a plumbing change, not an appliance repair. It is worth knowing before anyone orders a spray arm, because a new arm will not fix a pressure problem. Households on tank water, on rural supply, or at the end of a long run in an older building are the ones most likely to be in this category.
The hidden second fault number
Something else in the F&P guide that almost nobody uses.
When a code is displayed, pressing the buttons in the sequence set out in the user guide brings up a second number briefly on the display. Note it down alongside the first. Fisher & Paykel uses it to identify the fault more precisely.
If you are calling us, that second number narrows the diagnosis before a technician leaves the depot, which is often the difference between one visit and two.
When it is not a U code
If the drawer is showing an E code, stop. Those describe component failures, and E1 in particular means the flood switch has detected water in the base, which calls for the water supply to be isolated straight away.
Our dishwasher repair service covers DishDrawer single and double units in Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Adelaide and Perth, with same-day appointments subject to availability, a 12-month parts warranty and a 3-month labour warranty.
Tell the office the code and, if you have it, the second number. If the drawer is draining poorly as well, our guide to why dishwashers stop draining covers the checks worth doing first.
Frequently asked questions
What does U1 mean on a Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer?
No water. The supply has not been turned on, or water is not reaching the drawer. Turn the tap on and press start to resume the programme.
What does U6 mean on a DishDrawer?
Either the spray arm has loosened or come off its mounting, or the incoming water pressure is too low. Check and refit the spray arm first.
Do U codes mean my DishDrawer is broken?
No. Fisher & Paykel uses the U series for conditions the owner can correct. Component faults appear as E codes instead.
Why does U6 keep coming back after I refit the spray arm?
Most likely low water pressure. F&P notes that a 4 litre valve may need to be fitted to the supply. That is a plumbing job, and a new spray arm will not resolve it.
One drawer shows U4. Is that drawer faulty?
No. U4 means the other drawer has a fault that is blocking this one. Deal with the code on the other drawer and U4 will clear.
The short version
U1 and U6 are the two DishDrawer codes worth trying yourself. U1 is almost always a closed tap. U6 is almost always a spray arm that has lifted off its mounting, and when it is not, it is water pressure, and that needs a plumber, not an appliance technician.
Anything in the E series is a different matter, and E1 in particular means isolate the water now. National Appliance Repairs services Fisher & Paykel DishDrawers across five capitals with upfront quoting. Book online or call your nearest office.
Mid-service, racks stacked up, and the Hobart has stopped with a code on the display. One question matters right now: can your team clear this in two minutes, or is it hand washing for the rest of the night?
Fill and drain faults you can usually answer yourself. Anything else is a call. National Appliance Repairs maintains Hobart warewashing equipment across five capitals, and this is the decision tree our technicians walk venue managers through on the phone.
What the E codes actually cover
On Hobart LXi and AM Select undercounter machines, the E series is reserved for fill and drain problems. When one appears, the machine stops the cycle, shuts off all heat sources, and holds the message on the display until the OFF button is pressed.
That heat detail matters before you improvise a workaround. A Hobart running a thermal cycle relies on the final rinse to sanitise. With the heat sources off, it is not sanitising, even if you can coax water through it.
Code
What it means
Can the venue clear it?
E0, E2, E3, E4
The machine is not filling, or not filling high enough. The unit will not run
Often yes
E5
The machine is not draining properly
Often yes
E6
Contact an authorised service agent
No
CL or Pr
Filling too high, or leaking from the door
Sometimes
P1, P2, P3 flashing with a spanner icon
Contact an authorised service agent
No
E0, E2, E3 and E4 all describe the same broad condition. Hobart splits them by which stage of the fill sequence failed, not by which part broke. Four codes, one investigation.
Fill faults: what to check before you call
Work through these in order. Most fill errors are upstream of the machine.
Check the isolation valve is open. Somebody closes it during a clean-down and forgets. This is the single most common cause and it costs nothing to rule out.
Check building water pressure. Undercounter machines need adequate pressure to fill within the expected window. If other outlets in the venue are weak too, the problem is not the dishwasher.
Clean the inlet strainer. Hobart machines have a strainer at the inlet solenoid or hose connection. Blocked, it starves the machine of water. Isolate, unscrew, rinse, refit.
Check the float and water level probes. A float that cannot move freely, or probes coated in scale, will misreport the level. Wipe the probes clean.
Confirm the machine is level. An unlevel unit reads its water level wrong, which is also what sits behind a CL or Pr message.
If the code returns after all five, the inlet solenoid valve or the level sensing circuit needs testing. That is a technician job.
Drain faults and the E5 code
E5 says the machine could not empty within the allotted time. In a commercial kitchen the cause is almost always physical.
Scrap trays and strainer baskets full. Pre-scrapping discipline slips during a rush and the trays fill faster than anyone expects.
Drain hose kinked or restricted. Check the run behind and under the machine, especially after it has been pulled out for cleaning.
Grease and mineral buildup in the drain line. Builds over months and announces itself as a code that appears more and more often.
Drain stop or overflow tube not seated correctly. Easy to misfit after a wash-down.
Clear the obvious and restart. An E5 that returns the same shift usually means the drain pump or the line beyond the machine needs attention.
Why the code you are looking at may not match your model
This is where most online guides fall down, because they treat Hobart as one machine.
LXi and AM Select display the numeric E series described above.
LXe machines use plain text messages such as a fill error or a door open message instead of E codes.
LX40 uses a different convention again, with fill and drain problems shown as worded prompts.
CL and CLe conveyor machines are a separate platform with their own diagnostics, and they should not be diagnosed against an undercounter code list.
If the code you have found online does not match what is on your display, check the model number on the rating label before acting on it. Parts ordered against the wrong code list are a common and expensive mistake.
A machine sitting on an E code with its heat sources off is not meeting that. Neither is one somebody has restarted repeatedly to force through a cycle. If the fault will not clear, move to a compliant manual wash and sanitise process and get the machine looked at.
Document the downtime. Your Environmental Health Officer will ask.
When to book, and what to have ready
Book immediately on E6, on any flashing P code with a spanner icon, on a fill or drain fault that returns after the checks above, or on any code accompanied by visible water on the floor.
Our office team answers B2B calls until 6:30 PM weekdays.
Have three things ready: the model number from the rating label, the exact code, and whether it shows on fill or on drain. That combination usually tells our technician which part to load.
Frequently asked questions
What does E0 mean on a Hobart dishwasher?
It is a fill fault. The machine has not filled, or has not filled to the required level, and will not run. E2, E3 and E4 describe the same condition at different points in the fill sequence.
What is the difference between E0 and E5 on a Hobart?
E0 and the other low-numbered E codes are fill faults. E5 is a drain fault, meaning the machine could not empty within the expected time.
Can we keep using a Hobart dishwasher showing an error code?
No. The machine shuts off its heat sources when it displays these codes, so it is not sanitising. Move to a compliant manual process until the fault is cleared.
What does E6 mean on a Hobart dishwasher?
Hobart directs this one straight to an authorised service agent. There is no venue-side fix.
Why do the error codes online not match my Hobart?
Because Hobart uses different conventions across model families. LXi and AM Select machines use numeric E codes, LXe uses text messages, and conveyor machines are different again. Check your model number first.
The short version
E0 through E4 are fill faults, E5 is a drain fault, and both are usually caused by something outside the machine: a closed valve, a blocked strainer, a full scrap tray, a kinked hose. Those are worth five minutes before you call anyone.
E6 and flashing P codes are not. Neither is any code that comes back the same shift. And a machine holding an error is a machine that is not sanitising, which makes it a compliance problem as well as a service problem. National Appliance Repairs services Hobart warewashers nationally, with priority commercial scheduling. Get in touch or call your nearest office.
F70 is not a code to work around. It is Miele's Waterproof System reporting that water has reached the base of the machine, and the appliance has shut itself down deliberately to stop that water spreading into your cabinetry and floor.
Miele's own instruction for this fault is short and worth following exactly. National Appliance Repairs services Miele appliances in Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Adelaide and Perth, and F70 is one of the few codes where our advice to a caller is to stop touching the machine.
What Miele says to do
Miele's published guidance for F70, listed under Waterproof System, is four steps:
Close the stopcock, meaning the water isolation valve to the dishwasher.
Switch the dishwasher off.
Disconnect the mains plug. The drain pump will stop running.
Contact Miele Customer Service.
That third point explains something owners find alarming. With F70 active, the drain pump keeps running continuously even though no cycle is in progress. That is the machine trying to evacuate water, and it is why the pump only stops when power is removed.
Do those four things before anything else. Everything below is context for the conversation you will have afterwards.
How the Waterproof System works
Miele builds a float switch into the base tray under the tub. Any water that escapes the tub, the hoses, the inlet solenoid or the sump collects in that tray and lifts the float.
Once the float lifts, the control board cancels the programme, shuts off water intake and runs the drain pump. The machine will not operate again until the tray is dry and the float has dropped back down.
It is a very sensitive system by design. A small amount of water in the tray is enough to trigger it, which is the point: Miele would rather stop the machine over a slow drip than let it develop into a flooded kitchen.
What actually causes it
Cause
How it presents
Owner-resolvable?
Oversudsing
Foam overflows the tub into the base. Often follows a detergent change or using the wrong product
Partly
Door seal failure
Water escaping past a torn, flattened or dirty gasket
Sometimes
Loose hose connection or clamp
Slow drip that takes weeks to fill the tray
Technician
Sump or pump seal leak
Only leaks during the wash phase, not on fill
Technician
Inlet solenoid or hose leak
Waterproof System is specifically designed to channel this into the tray
Technician
Faulty float switch
F70 persists with the base tray confirmed dry
Technician
Oversudsing deserves a mention because it is the cause with no leak behind it. Household dish soap in the dispenser, far too much detergent, or a heavily soiled load with protein residue can all produce enough foam to overflow into the base. The machine is working correctly and reporting correctly. There is simply nothing broken.
About the tilt trick
Search F70 and you will find advice to pull the dishwasher out, tilt it forward or backward at 45 degrees, and drain the base tray to reset the float.
Technicians do a version of this. It is not a good idea as a DIY step, for three reasons.
A Miele dishwasher is heavy, plumbed in and connected to mains power. Moving one while connected risks damaging hoses and the electrical connection.
Draining the tray clears the symptom and does nothing about the leak. If there is an active leak, the tray refills and you are back where you started, with more water having passed through in the meantime.
Water that has already reached the base has been sitting next to electrical components. That needs looking at, not tipping out.
The tray does need to be emptied and dried. It should happen alongside finding the leak, not instead of it.
F70 and F11 are different faults
Worth separating, because the two get confused and they lead to different repairs.
F11 is a drainage fault. The machine tried to drain, repeatedly, and detected water still present in the tub. Our guide to the Miele F11 error covers the filter, non-return valve and hard water deposits behind it.
F70 is a leak fault. Water is in the base tray, outside the tub, where it should never be.
You can have both, and the ordering tells a story. A drainage problem that overflows the tub will eventually put water in the base and trigger F70 as a secondary event. If you have seen F11 in the weeks before F70 appeared, mention it when you book.
Booking a Miele repair
Miele's advice is to contact service, and F70 is a fault where we agree with that assessment. Tracing a slow leak in a Miele takes the machine coming out, panels off, and a controlled test run watching the base tray while the wash phase runs.
We are not a Miele authorised agent, and we say so plainly. What we do offer is dishwasher repair across all five capitals with technicians who work on Miele regularly, upfront quoting before any work starts, genuine or manufacturer-recommended parts, and a 12-month parts warranty with a 3-month labour warranty. If your machine is still inside its Miele warranty, contact Miele first.
Tell us whether you have seen any water on the floor, and whether you changed detergent recently. Both change what we look at first.
Frequently asked questions
What does F70 mean on a Miele dishwasher?
It is the Waterproof System fault. Water has reached the base tray and lifted a float switch, so the machine has cancelled the programme and shut down to prevent flooding.
Why does my Miele dishwasher keep pumping with F70 showing?
The drain pump runs continuously while the fault is active, trying to evacuate water. Miele's guidance is to close the stopcock, switch the machine off and disconnect the mains plug, which stops the pump.
Can F70 happen without a leak?
Yes. Excessive foam from too much detergent, or from washing-up liquid used by mistake, can overflow the tub into the base tray and trigger the same shutdown.
Can I just drain the base tray and keep using the dishwasher?
Only if the cause was foam. If there is an active leak, the tray refills and the machine keeps shutting down while water continues to escape near electrical components.
Is F70 the same as F11?
No. F11 is a drainage fault inside the tub. F70 is water in the base tray outside the tub. A long-running F11 can eventually cause an F70.
The short version
Close the water, switch it off, unplug it. That is Miele's instruction and it is the right one, because F70 means water is somewhere it should not be and the machine has stopped to limit the damage.
Detergent foam is the one cause with nothing broken behind it. Everything else on the list is a leak that needs finding, and draining the tray without finding it just buys a few days. National Appliance Repairs works on Miele dishwashers across Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Adelaide and Perth with upfront quoting. Book online or call your nearest office.
Opening the dishwasher and getting hit with a smell that's somewhere between rotting food and stagnant water isn't just unpleasant, it usually means that smell is transferring onto your actually clean dishes too. The good news is that the vast majority of dishwasher odour comes down to a small handful of causes, and most of them are a straightforward clean rather than a repair.
Here's what's actually going on and how to sort it out properly.
The Filter Is the Most Likely Culprit
Modern dishwashers, generally anything made in the last 15 years or so, use a manual-clean filter at the bottom of the tub rather than the old self-grinding systems older machines used. It's an effective design, but it depends on someone actually removing and rinsing it periodically, and a huge number of people don't know it's there at all.
Food particles get trapped in the filter during every single wash. Left long enough in a warm, wet environment, that trapped food starts to decompose, and the smell ranges from faintly stale to genuinely rotten depending on how long it's been sitting there. Pull the filter out from the bottom of the tub, usually with a twist-and-lift motion, though it's worth checking your manual if you're not sure. Rinse it thoroughly under hot water, and for heavier build-up, scrub with an old toothbrush or soak it in warm water with a few tablespoons of white vinegar or baking soda first.
Other Common Sources
Standing water in the tub
If water isn't draining fully after a cycle, even an inch or so sitting at the bottom, it stagnates and starts to smell sour or musty. This is often caused by the same clogged filter, but a kinked or improperly installed drain hose is worth checking too.
Grease and soap scum build-up
Much like a shower, dishwashers build up a layer of soap scum over time, and that scum acts as a magnet for food particles, making the whole problem worse. This tends to show up as a general staleness rather than an obvious rotting smell.
Mould or mildew around the door gasket
The rubber seal around the door traps moisture, and moisture plus organic residue is exactly what mould needs. A musty smell, similar to damp cardboard, is the usual sign.
Blocked spray arms
Food debris can lodge in the small holes of the spray arms, and beyond reducing how well your dishes get cleaned, trapped debris here can also contribute to lingering odour.
A serious drain blockage
If the smell is more like sewage than food, that points to something more significant further down the drain line rather than anything inside the tub itself, and it's usually accompanied by poor drainage or standing water that doesn't clear even after a full cycle.
How to Clean It Properly
Start with the filter, since it resolves the majority of cases on its own. Remove it, rinse thoroughly, and soak in warm soapy water with a splash of vinegar if there's stubborn build-up. While it's out, check the sump area underneath for any trapped food or debris.
Next, wipe down the door gasket and the door edges with warm, soapy water, paying particular attention to the folds and grooves where grime tends to hide. A cloth dipped in vinegar or a mild mildew cleaner works well if there's visible mould.
Check the spray arms next. Most simply lift off, and you can rinse them under running water and use a toothpick or similar to clear any blocked holes.
Finally, run an empty hot cycle with a dishwasher cleaner, or place a cup of white vinegar in a dishwasher-safe container on the top rack and run a full hot cycle with no dishes. This helps break down any remaining grease film on the tub walls and gives everything a final rinse through.
Quick Reference Table
Symptom
Likely Cause
Fix
Rotting food smell
Food debris trapped in the filter
Remove and clean the filter
Musty, damp cardboard smell
Mould or mildew on the door gasket
Clean the gasket with vinegar or mildew cleaner
Sour smell, water visible at the bottom
Poor drainage, standing water
Check filter and drain hose
General staleness, not obviously rotten
Grease or soap scum build-up
Run a hot cycle with vinegar or a dishwasher cleaner
Sewage-like smell
Drain line blockage further downstream
Worth a technician's assessment
Preventing It From Coming Back
Scrape food off plates before loading rather than relying on the dishwasher to handle large scraps, which is what fills the filter up fastest
Clean the filter on a regular schedule, roughly monthly for most households, more often if you run the dishwasher daily
Avoid overstacking the racks, since dishes packed too tightly block water and detergent from reaching everything properly
Run an occasional empty cycle with a dishwasher cleaner as routine maintenance rather than waiting for a smell to show up
Leave the door slightly ajar after a cycle finishes so the interior can air dry rather than sitting closed and damp
When It's More Than a Cleaning Job
If you've cleaned the filter, the gasket, and the spray arms and the smell is still there, particularly if it's a sewage smell rather than food or mustiness, that usually points to a drainage issue further along the line rather than anything inside the dishwasher itself. If your dishwasher is also leaving standing water or draining slowly, it's worth reading our guides on Miele dishwashers that won't drain, Westinghouse and Asko dishwashers that won't drain, or common faults with Smeg and Bosch dishwashers, depending on your brand, since drainage problems and persistent smells often go hand in hand.
National Appliance Repairs technicians work on dishwasher repairs across all major brands, and can quickly tell whether a smell is a cleaning issue or something further down the drain line that needs proper attention. Every repair comes with a 12-month parts warranty and 3-month labour warranty.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my dishwasher smell bad even though the dishes come out clean?
The smell usually comes from food debris trapped in the filter, the sump, or the door gasket, none of which necessarily affect how clean your dishes look. It's a maintenance issue rather than a sign the dishwasher isn't working properly.
How often should I clean my dishwasher filter?
Roughly once a month for most households is a reasonable routine, more often if you run the dishwasher daily or often wash particularly greasy or food-heavy loads.
Is it normal for a small amount of water to sit at the bottom of the dishwasher?
A small amount around the drain area is generally normal on many models. Water sitting an inch deep or more, or that doesn't clear after a full cycle, points to a drainage problem worth investigating.
Can I use vinegar and baking soda instead of a commercial dishwasher cleaner?
Yes. Both work well for routine odour control and light grease removal. For mould specifically, a dedicated mildew cleaner or diluted bleach solution on the gasket is more effective.
When does a smelly dishwasher need a technician instead of a clean?
If you've cleaned the filter, gasket, and spray arms and the smell persists, especially if it's a sewage smell, that usually points to a drain blockage further along the line rather than anything a clean will fix.
The Bottom Line
Most dishwasher smells come down to a dirty filter, and cleaning it takes about five minutes and solves the majority of cases outright. If you've worked through the gasket and spray arms too and it's still not right, get in touch with National Appliance Repairs or call 1300 434 380 for a same-day assessment, subject to availability, across Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Adelaide, and Perth.
Dishes still wet, water pooling in the tub, a faint smell building if it's sat there a day or two.
We’ve had several of such calls at National Appliance Repairs from owners of Westinghouse and Asko-branded dishwashers. In our experience, they fail in fairly similar ways when it comes to drainage, even sitting at opposite ends of the market the way they do. Here's what actually causes it in each, and what's worth checking before booking anyone.
Start With the Filter, Regardless of Brand
No matter what badge is out in the front, every dishwasher comes with a filter.
There’ll be a sump filter, which will catch food debris before it reaches the pump. However, it’s the coarse or fine mesh that’s the single biggest cause of drainage problems on both brands, and it's the easiest thing to check yourself.
Take the bottom rack out and remove the filter assembly. Use hot water and take a soft brush to anything stuck to it – check again. This fixes the problem most of the time.
Westinghouse: Where It Usually Goes Wrong
Westinghouse shares a lot of its dishwasher engineering with Electrolux, so the faults we see tend to follow a familiar pattern. If the filter's already clean, the next most likely cause is the drain pump itself, either a failed motor or a jammed impeller. Broken glass and food scraps are the usual obstruction, and if the pump hums without actually spinning, that's a fairly good sign the impeller's caught on something rather than the motor being dead.
Some Westinghouse models also use a drain solenoid to open the drain valve at the right point in the cycle. If the solenoid fails, the valve simply won't open, and no amount of filter cleaning is going to fix that. The valve itself can clog with debris over years of use too, and unlike a filter, it's not something you clean and reuse once it's actually failed. It gets replaced.
Less obviously, a fault on the control board can stop it sending power to the drain pump at all, even though the pump itself is fine. This one's harder to work out yourself, since everything downstream looks normal until you actually test for power at the pump.
Asko: A Similar Pattern, With a Couple of Extras
Asko dishwashers follow much the same order of likely causes: filter first, pump second, control board third. Where Asko differs a little is the float switch, a small component that monitors water level and is meant to stop the machine overfilling. If it sticks or fails, it can throw off draining too, since the machine ends up reading the water level incorrectly and never triggers the drain cycle properly.
Asko dishwashers do display fault codes on the panel, though the exact code and what it means can vary noticeably between model generations. A code that means one thing on an older Asko can mean something else entirely on a newer one, so rather than guess based on a number, it's worth checking your specific model's manual, or having a technician read it against the right reference.
Quick Reference: Symptom to Likely Cause
Symptom
Westinghouse
Asko
Standing water, filter already clean
Pump impeller obstruction
Pump impeller obstruction
Pump hums, doesn't spin
Impeller jammed on debris
Impeller jammed on debris
No pump activity at all
Failed solenoid or control board
Control board or float switch fault
Mid-cycle drain doesn't reduce water level
Drain valve clogged or stuck
Check valve or float switch issue
Fault code on display
Model-specific, check manual
Varies significantly by model generation
What You Can Check Yourself
Clean the filter assembly thoroughly, including the fine mesh section if your model has one
Check the drain hose for kinks and confirm it's still properly connected at both ends
If it's connected to a garbage disposal, run the disposal before starting a cycle to clear any blockage in the shared line
Listen for the pump during the drain stage. A hum with no spin points at an obstructed impeller rather than a dead motor
Power the dishwasher off for a few minutes and run a short cycle to see if a temporary glitch clears on its own
Why Some of This Needs a Professional
Clearing debris from a pump impeller is a reasonable job for most people who are comfortable pulling a filter out. Diagnosing a failed solenoid, a faulty control board, or a stuck float switch is a different level of work, and getting a control board diagnosis wrong means paying for a part that was never actually the problem. It's also worth remembering that standing water left in the tub damages pump seals and encourages mould the longer it sits, so it's not a fault worth working around for long.
National Appliance Repairs technicians work on both Westinghouse and Asko dishwashers regularly, and carry genuine filters, pumps, solenoids, and control boards for dishwasher repairs across the range. Most drainage faults are diagnosed and fixed in a single visit, backed by a 12-month parts warranty and 3-month labour warranty.
Keeping the Fault From Coming Back
Clean the filter on a regular schedule rather than waiting for symptoms to show up
Scrape plates before loading, so there's less debris for the filter to trap in the first place
If your model shares a drain with a garbage disposal, run it briefly before every wash, not just after something's already blocked
Avoid using rinse aid or detergent well past its use-by date, since old detergent can leave residue that builds up over time
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my Westinghouse dishwasher keep leaving water at the bottom?
In most cases it's the filter. If that's already clean, a jammed pump impeller is the next most likely cause, followed by a failed drain solenoid or control board issue if the pump isn't responding at all.
What does a fault code on my Asko dishwasher actually mean?
It depends heavily on the specific model and generation, since Asko's codes aren't consistent across the whole range. It's worth checking your model's manual rather than assuming a code means what it did on an older machine.
Is a humming pump that isn't spinning a serious fault?
Not usually. A hum with no spin generally points to something physically obstructing the impeller, like broken glass or a fruit pit, rather than a burnt-out motor. Clearing the obstruction often solves it.
Can I test or replace a drain solenoid myself?
It's a fair bit more involved than a filter clean, and getting the diagnosis wrong means you might replace a part that was never faulty. It's worth having a technician confirm it's actually the solenoid before ordering the part.
What does it cost to fix a Westinghouse or Asko dishwasher that won't drain?
It depends on the fault. A filter clean or impeller clear costs very little. A solenoid, control board, or pump replacement is a bigger job. Call 1300 434 380 for a ballpark before booking.
The Bottom Line
Filter, pump, then the electronics behind it. That order solves the overwhelming majority of drainage faults on both brands. If you've worked through the checks above and it's still not draining, contact National Appliance Repairs or call 1300 434 380 for a same-day assessment, subject to availability, across Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Adelaide, and Perth.
Open the door at the end of a cycle and there's a pool of grey water sitting in the bottom. Dishes still dirty, maybe a bit of a smell starting already. A Miele dishwasher not draining is one of the more common faults we see at National Appliance Repairs, and the good news is most cases come down to one of a small handful of causes, several of which don't need a technician at all.
Here's where to look, in the order that actually finds the problem fastest.
Start With the Filter
The filter assembly sits at the base of the tub, right under the lower spray arm. It's the most common cause of drainage problems by a wide margin. Most Miele models split it into two parts: a coarse filter for larger scraps, a fine mesh underneath for grease and smaller bits. Leave it a few months and that fine mesh clogs enough to choke water flow before anything actually breaks.
Pull the bottom rack, twist the assembly to unlock it, rinse both parts under hot water. Soft brush beats plain water for stuck-on grease. Anything really baked on, soak it in warm soapy water for ten minutes first.
If the Filter's Clean, Check the Disposal or Drain Line
If your Miele drains through a garbage disposal, run the disposal for a bit longer than usual before starting a cycle, since food scraps sitting in the disposal chamber block the same shared drain path. Newly installed disposal units sometimes still have a knockout plug in place blocking the dishwasher connection entirely. Worth confirming that's out.
If your dishwasher drains into a standpipe instead, check that the hose hasn't kinked behind the machine and that it's still properly connected at both ends.
The Drain Pump and Non-Return Valve
Rule out the filter and the disposal or drain line and the next place to look is the drain pump itself, located underneath the non-return valve. The most common issue here is an obstructed pump impeller, the small fan-like part that spins to force water out. Broken glass, fruit pits, and bits of crockery are the usual culprits. Some water pooling back out when you check this is normal and not a sign of anything worse.
The non-return valve sits just above the pump and stops drained water flowing back into the tub. If it's stuck, cracked, or sitting slightly out of place, drainage suffers even with a perfectly good pump underneath it.
Some Models Will Show You a Code
Some Miele dishwashers flash a drain indicator or throw an F11 code for this, and it usually means water's sitting in the base pan rather than the tub itself. Not every model shows it this way though, and the display varies across the range.
Different flash pattern on yours? Owner's manual is the fastest way to confirm what it actually means.
Quick Reference: Symptom to Likely Cause
Symptom
Likely Cause
DIY or Technician?
Standing water, dishes still dirty
Clogged filter
DIY, five-minute clean
Gurgling or humming during drain
Pump impeller obstruction
DIY to check, technician if damaged
Drains fine without disposal, backs up when connected
Disposal blockage or leftover knockout plug
DIY
Water backs up after filter and hose are confirmed clear
Faulty drain pump motor or non-return valve
Technician
F11 or flashing drain light showing
Water detected in base pan
Technician, to find the source
What You Can Check Yourself
Remove and clean both filter components, weekly if you use the dishwasher daily
Run the garbage disposal before starting a cycle if the two share a drain
Check the drain hose isn't kinked, crushed, or sitting at an awkward angle behind the machine
Look at the pump impeller for visible obstructions once the filter's out of the way
Reset the dishwasher by powering it off for a minute, then run a short cycle to see if it clears on its own
When It's Time to Call Someone
A blocked filter or a stray bit of glass in the impeller is a fair DIY job. A failed pump motor, a damaged non-return valve, or a control board that isn't sending power to the pump at all is a different matter, and neither is something worth guessing at with a high-end appliance. Stagnant water left sitting in the tub for days breeds mould and can damage the pump seals over time, so it's worth acting on rather than working around with a mop and a prayer.
National Appliance Repairs technicians work on Miele dishwashers regularly across dishwasher repairs, and carry genuine filters, pumps, and non-return valves for the range, so most drainage faults get sorted in a single visit. Every repair comes with a 12-month parts warranty and 3-month labour warranty.
Keeping It From Happening Again
Scrape plates before loading rather than relying on the dishwasher to handle large food scraps
Clean the filter on a schedule rather than waiting for a problem to force the issue
Avoid putting anything with bones, fruit pits, or glass fragments in without checking they're fully cleared away first
If you're on a shared drain with a garbage disposal, run it briefly before every dishwasher cycle, not just when there's already a problem
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is my Miele dishwasher leaving water in the bottom?
Almost always the filter first, followed by a blocked disposal connection or drain hose, then the pump impeller if those check out clean. Work through them in that order and you'll usually find it within a few minutes.
Is it safe to run the dishwasher again with water sitting in it?
Better not to. Standing water sits against the pump seals and can encourage mould, and running another cycle on top of it doesn't fix the underlying blockage. Clear the cause first.
What does the F11 code mean on a Miele dishwasher?
On models that display it, F11 generally points to water detected in the base pan under the tub rather than the tub itself, which usually means a leak or overflow rather than a simple drain blockage. It's worth a technician confirming the actual source rather than just clearing the code.
Can I fix a Miele drain pump myself?
Clearing an obstruction from the pump impeller is a reasonable DIY task once the filter's out of the way. Replacing the pump motor or the non-return valve is more involved and best left to someone who works on these machines regularly.
How much does it cost to fix a Miele dishwasher that won't drain?
Depends entirely on the cause. A filter clean costs nothing but time. A pump or non-return valve replacement is a bigger job. Call 1300 434 380 for a free phone consultation and ballpark pricing before booking.
The Bottom Line
Filter, disposal or hose, then the pump. Work through those three in order and you'll solve the overwhelming majority of Miele drainage faults without calling anyone. Still sitting there after that? Get in touch with National Appliance Repairs or call 1300 434 380 for a same-day assessment, subject to availability, across Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Adelaide, and Perth.
