Good news first. If your DishDrawer is showing U1 or U6, Fisher & Paykel has already told you this is something you can fix. The U series exists specifically to separate the problems an owner can resolve from the ones that need a technician.
The E series is the other list, and it does not have that property. National Appliance Repairs services Fisher & Paykel appliances across five capitals, and DishDrawers are one of the appliances where knowing which list you are looking at saves a callout fee.
U codes and E codes are different lists
Fisher & Paykel's DishDrawer user guide splits its fault codes into two groups.
U codes describe a condition you can correct. The drawer will resume its programme once you have. There is no part to replace and no panel to remove.
E codes describe component and electronics faults. Flood detection, motor failure, temperature sensor faults, heating element failure, lid faults, drying fan faults and electronics faults all sit in the E group.
Code
What Fisher & Paykel says it means
Group
U1
No water. The water supply has not been turned on
Owner
U4
A fault in the other drawer is preventing use of this drawer
Owner
U6
The spray arm has loosened or come off its mounting, or water pressure is too low
Owner
E1
Flood detected
Technician
E2
Motor fault
Technician
E3
Temperature sensor fault
Technician
E4
Heating element failed
Technician
E5
Fault with the internal lid
Technician
E6
Fault with the drying fan
Technician
E7, E8
Electronics faults
Technician
Fixing a U1
U1 means the drawer asked for water and did not get any.
Turn the water supply on at the tap under the sink, then press the start button to resume the wash programme. That is Fisher & Paykel's stated fix, and in most cases it is the whole story: somebody isolated the water for a plumbing job, or a tap was knocked closed during a cupboard clean-out.
If the tap is already open, work outward:
Check the inlet hose for kinks behind or under the cabinetry.
Check the inlet filter at the hose connection for grit and scale.
Check whether the rest of the house has water. Mains work in the street produces U1 as reliably as a closed tap does.
Check the other drawer on a double unit. If it also refuses to fill, the problem is the supply, not the drawer.
A U1 that persists with a confirmed open supply and a clear hose points at the inlet valve, and that is a service call.
Fixing a U6
U6 has two possible causes, and Fisher & Paykel names both.
The spray arm has come loose
This is the common one and it takes a minute. Open the drawer, look at the spray arm in the base, and check whether it has lifted off its mounting or worked loose. Refit it following the instructions in the user maintenance section of your guide, close the drawer, and press start to resume.
While the drawer is open, lift the spray arm and shake any foreign material out of it, then rinse it under running water. Blocked spray arm holes will not necessarily throw a code, but they will leave dishes dirty, and debris in the arm is often what worked it loose in the first place.
Also check nothing loaded in the drawer is fouling the arm's rotation. Spin it by hand through a full turn. A tall item or a fallen utensil stopping the arm produces the same result as a loose one.
The water pressure is too low
If the spray arm is seated correctly and rotating freely and U6 still appears, the second cause applies. Fisher & Paykel notes that low incoming water pressure can trigger this code, and that a 4 litre valve may need to be installed on the water supply to correct it.
That is a plumbing change, not an appliance repair. It is worth knowing before anyone orders a spray arm, because a new arm will not fix a pressure problem. Households on tank water, on rural supply, or at the end of a long run in an older building are the ones most likely to be in this category.
The hidden second fault number
Something else in the F&P guide that almost nobody uses.
When a code is displayed, pressing the buttons in the sequence set out in the user guide brings up a second number briefly on the display. Note it down alongside the first. Fisher & Paykel uses it to identify the fault more precisely.
If you are calling us, that second number narrows the diagnosis before a technician leaves the depot, which is often the difference between one visit and two.
When it is not a U code
If the drawer is showing an E code, stop. Those describe component failures, and E1 in particular means the flood switch has detected water in the base, which calls for the water supply to be isolated straight away.
Our dishwasher repair service covers DishDrawer single and double units in Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Adelaide and Perth, with same-day appointments subject to availability, a 12-month parts warranty and a 3-month labour warranty.
Tell the office the code and, if you have it, the second number. If the drawer is draining poorly as well, our guide to why dishwashers stop draining covers the checks worth doing first.
Frequently asked questions
What does U1 mean on a Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer?
No water. The supply has not been turned on, or water is not reaching the drawer. Turn the tap on and press start to resume the programme.
What does U6 mean on a DishDrawer?
Either the spray arm has loosened or come off its mounting, or the incoming water pressure is too low. Check and refit the spray arm first.
Do U codes mean my DishDrawer is broken?
No. Fisher & Paykel uses the U series for conditions the owner can correct. Component faults appear as E codes instead.
Why does U6 keep coming back after I refit the spray arm?
Most likely low water pressure. F&P notes that a 4 litre valve may need to be fitted to the supply. That is a plumbing job, and a new spray arm will not resolve it.
One drawer shows U4. Is that drawer faulty?
No. U4 means the other drawer has a fault that is blocking this one. Deal with the code on the other drawer and U4 will clear.
The short version
U1 and U6 are the two DishDrawer codes worth trying yourself. U1 is almost always a closed tap. U6 is almost always a spray arm that has lifted off its mounting, and when it is not, it is water pressure, and that needs a plumber, not an appliance technician.
Anything in the E series is a different matter, and E1 in particular means isolate the water now. National Appliance Repairs services Fisher & Paykel DishDrawers across five capitals with upfront quoting. Book online or call your nearest office.
Mid-service, racks stacked up, and the Hobart has stopped with a code on the display. One question matters right now: can your team clear this in two minutes, or is it hand washing for the rest of the night?
Fill and drain faults you can usually answer yourself. Anything else is a call. National Appliance Repairs maintains Hobart warewashing equipment across five capitals, and this is the decision tree our technicians walk venue managers through on the phone.
What the E codes actually cover
On Hobart LXi and AM Select undercounter machines, the E series is reserved for fill and drain problems. When one appears, the machine stops the cycle, shuts off all heat sources, and holds the message on the display until the OFF button is pressed.
That heat detail matters before you improvise a workaround. A Hobart running a thermal cycle relies on the final rinse to sanitise. With the heat sources off, it is not sanitising, even if you can coax water through it.
Code
What it means
Can the venue clear it?
E0, E2, E3, E4
The machine is not filling, or not filling high enough. The unit will not run
Often yes
E5
The machine is not draining properly
Often yes
E6
Contact an authorised service agent
No
CL or Pr
Filling too high, or leaking from the door
Sometimes
P1, P2, P3 flashing with a spanner icon
Contact an authorised service agent
No
E0, E2, E3 and E4 all describe the same broad condition. Hobart splits them by which stage of the fill sequence failed, not by which part broke. Four codes, one investigation.
Fill faults: what to check before you call
Work through these in order. Most fill errors are upstream of the machine.
Check the isolation valve is open. Somebody closes it during a clean-down and forgets. This is the single most common cause and it costs nothing to rule out.
Check building water pressure. Undercounter machines need adequate pressure to fill within the expected window. If other outlets in the venue are weak too, the problem is not the dishwasher.
Clean the inlet strainer. Hobart machines have a strainer at the inlet solenoid or hose connection. Blocked, it starves the machine of water. Isolate, unscrew, rinse, refit.
Check the float and water level probes. A float that cannot move freely, or probes coated in scale, will misreport the level. Wipe the probes clean.
Confirm the machine is level. An unlevel unit reads its water level wrong, which is also what sits behind a CL or Pr message.
If the code returns after all five, the inlet solenoid valve or the level sensing circuit needs testing. That is a technician job.
Drain faults and the E5 code
E5 says the machine could not empty within the allotted time. In a commercial kitchen the cause is almost always physical.
Scrap trays and strainer baskets full. Pre-scrapping discipline slips during a rush and the trays fill faster than anyone expects.
Drain hose kinked or restricted. Check the run behind and under the machine, especially after it has been pulled out for cleaning.
Grease and mineral buildup in the drain line. Builds over months and announces itself as a code that appears more and more often.
Drain stop or overflow tube not seated correctly. Easy to misfit after a wash-down.
Clear the obvious and restart. An E5 that returns the same shift usually means the drain pump or the line beyond the machine needs attention.
Why the code you are looking at may not match your model
This is where most online guides fall down, because they treat Hobart as one machine.
LXi and AM Select display the numeric E series described above.
LXe machines use plain text messages such as a fill error or a door open message instead of E codes.
LX40 uses a different convention again, with fill and drain problems shown as worded prompts.
CL and CLe conveyor machines are a separate platform with their own diagnostics, and they should not be diagnosed against an undercounter code list.
If the code you have found online does not match what is on your display, check the model number on the rating label before acting on it. Parts ordered against the wrong code list are a common and expensive mistake.
A machine sitting on an E code with its heat sources off is not meeting that. Neither is one somebody has restarted repeatedly to force through a cycle. If the fault will not clear, move to a compliant manual wash and sanitise process and get the machine looked at.
Document the downtime. Your Environmental Health Officer will ask.
When to book, and what to have ready
Book immediately on E6, on any flashing P code with a spanner icon, on a fill or drain fault that returns after the checks above, or on any code accompanied by visible water on the floor.
Our office team answers B2B calls until 6:30 PM weekdays.
Have three things ready: the model number from the rating label, the exact code, and whether it shows on fill or on drain. That combination usually tells our technician which part to load.
Frequently asked questions
What does E0 mean on a Hobart dishwasher?
It is a fill fault. The machine has not filled, or has not filled to the required level, and will not run. E2, E3 and E4 describe the same condition at different points in the fill sequence.
What is the difference between E0 and E5 on a Hobart?
E0 and the other low-numbered E codes are fill faults. E5 is a drain fault, meaning the machine could not empty within the expected time.
Can we keep using a Hobart dishwasher showing an error code?
No. The machine shuts off its heat sources when it displays these codes, so it is not sanitising. Move to a compliant manual process until the fault is cleared.
What does E6 mean on a Hobart dishwasher?
Hobart directs this one straight to an authorised service agent. There is no venue-side fix.
Why do the error codes online not match my Hobart?
Because Hobart uses different conventions across model families. LXi and AM Select machines use numeric E codes, LXe uses text messages, and conveyor machines are different again. Check your model number first.
The short version
E0 through E4 are fill faults, E5 is a drain fault, and both are usually caused by something outside the machine: a closed valve, a blocked strainer, a full scrap tray, a kinked hose. Those are worth five minutes before you call anyone.
E6 and flashing P codes are not. Neither is any code that comes back the same shift. And a machine holding an error is a machine that is not sanitising, which makes it a compliance problem as well as a service problem. National Appliance Repairs services Hobart warewashers nationally, with priority commercial scheduling. Get in touch or call your nearest office.
F70 is not a code to work around. It is Miele's Waterproof System reporting that water has reached the base of the machine, and the appliance has shut itself down deliberately to stop that water spreading into your cabinetry and floor.
Miele's own instruction for this fault is short and worth following exactly. National Appliance Repairs services Miele appliances in Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Adelaide and Perth, and F70 is one of the few codes where our advice to a caller is to stop touching the machine.
What Miele says to do
Miele's published guidance for F70, listed under Waterproof System, is four steps:
Close the stopcock, meaning the water isolation valve to the dishwasher.
Switch the dishwasher off.
Disconnect the mains plug. The drain pump will stop running.
Contact Miele Customer Service.
That third point explains something owners find alarming. With F70 active, the drain pump keeps running continuously even though no cycle is in progress. That is the machine trying to evacuate water, and it is why the pump only stops when power is removed.
Do those four things before anything else. Everything below is context for the conversation you will have afterwards.
How the Waterproof System works
Miele builds a float switch into the base tray under the tub. Any water that escapes the tub, the hoses, the inlet solenoid or the sump collects in that tray and lifts the float.
Once the float lifts, the control board cancels the programme, shuts off water intake and runs the drain pump. The machine will not operate again until the tray is dry and the float has dropped back down.
It is a very sensitive system by design. A small amount of water in the tray is enough to trigger it, which is the point: Miele would rather stop the machine over a slow drip than let it develop into a flooded kitchen.
What actually causes it
Cause
How it presents
Owner-resolvable?
Oversudsing
Foam overflows the tub into the base. Often follows a detergent change or using the wrong product
Partly
Door seal failure
Water escaping past a torn, flattened or dirty gasket
Sometimes
Loose hose connection or clamp
Slow drip that takes weeks to fill the tray
Technician
Sump or pump seal leak
Only leaks during the wash phase, not on fill
Technician
Inlet solenoid or hose leak
Waterproof System is specifically designed to channel this into the tray
Technician
Faulty float switch
F70 persists with the base tray confirmed dry
Technician
Oversudsing deserves a mention because it is the cause with no leak behind it. Household dish soap in the dispenser, far too much detergent, or a heavily soiled load with protein residue can all produce enough foam to overflow into the base. The machine is working correctly and reporting correctly. There is simply nothing broken.
About the tilt trick
Search F70 and you will find advice to pull the dishwasher out, tilt it forward or backward at 45 degrees, and drain the base tray to reset the float.
Technicians do a version of this. It is not a good idea as a DIY step, for three reasons.
A Miele dishwasher is heavy, plumbed in and connected to mains power. Moving one while connected risks damaging hoses and the electrical connection.
Draining the tray clears the symptom and does nothing about the leak. If there is an active leak, the tray refills and you are back where you started, with more water having passed through in the meantime.
Water that has already reached the base has been sitting next to electrical components. That needs looking at, not tipping out.
The tray does need to be emptied and dried. It should happen alongside finding the leak, not instead of it.
F70 and F11 are different faults
Worth separating, because the two get confused and they lead to different repairs.
F11 is a drainage fault. The machine tried to drain, repeatedly, and detected water still present in the tub. Our guide to the Miele F11 error covers the filter, non-return valve and hard water deposits behind it.
F70 is a leak fault. Water is in the base tray, outside the tub, where it should never be.
You can have both, and the ordering tells a story. A drainage problem that overflows the tub will eventually put water in the base and trigger F70 as a secondary event. If you have seen F11 in the weeks before F70 appeared, mention it when you book.
Booking a Miele repair
Miele's advice is to contact service, and F70 is a fault where we agree with that assessment. Tracing a slow leak in a Miele takes the machine coming out, panels off, and a controlled test run watching the base tray while the wash phase runs.
We are not a Miele authorised agent, and we say so plainly. What we do offer is dishwasher repair across all five capitals with technicians who work on Miele regularly, upfront quoting before any work starts, genuine or manufacturer-recommended parts, and a 12-month parts warranty with a 3-month labour warranty. If your machine is still inside its Miele warranty, contact Miele first.
Tell us whether you have seen any water on the floor, and whether you changed detergent recently. Both change what we look at first.
Frequently asked questions
What does F70 mean on a Miele dishwasher?
It is the Waterproof System fault. Water has reached the base tray and lifted a float switch, so the machine has cancelled the programme and shut down to prevent flooding.
Why does my Miele dishwasher keep pumping with F70 showing?
The drain pump runs continuously while the fault is active, trying to evacuate water. Miele's guidance is to close the stopcock, switch the machine off and disconnect the mains plug, which stops the pump.
Can F70 happen without a leak?
Yes. Excessive foam from too much detergent, or from washing-up liquid used by mistake, can overflow the tub into the base tray and trigger the same shutdown.
Can I just drain the base tray and keep using the dishwasher?
Only if the cause was foam. If there is an active leak, the tray refills and the machine keeps shutting down while water continues to escape near electrical components.
Is F70 the same as F11?
No. F11 is a drainage fault inside the tub. F70 is water in the base tray outside the tub. A long-running F11 can eventually cause an F70.
The short version
Close the water, switch it off, unplug it. That is Miele's instruction and it is the right one, because F70 means water is somewhere it should not be and the machine has stopped to limit the damage.
Detergent foam is the one cause with nothing broken behind it. Everything else on the list is a leak that needs finding, and draining the tray without finding it just buys a few days. National Appliance Repairs works on Miele dishwashers across Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Adelaide and Perth with upfront quoting. Book online or call your nearest office.
A combi oven is usually the most expensive single item in a commercial kitchen, and when it puts a Service message on the screen mid-prep, production stops with it. Some of those messages you can act on before service. Most you cannot.
Knowing which is which is the whole point of this page. National Appliance Repairs services Rational combi ovens across five capitals, and the difference between a five-minute check and a lost dinner service often comes down to reading the number correctly.
How Rational structures its messages
Rational displays faults as Service (E) followed by a number, and on newer iCombi units a decimal suffix that identifies which sensor or circuit within that group failed. Service 20.1 and Service 20.2 are both thermocouple faults, for example, but on different sensors.
Rational's own operating instructions are consistent about what to do: for these messages, contact your Rational Service Partner, and have the serial number ready. The company does not present them as owner-fixable.
That said, a handful have upstream causes a kitchen can check first, and those are worth knowing because they are also the ones that recur.
The messages you are most likely to see
Message
What it names
Kitchen check first?
Service 10
Self-clean automatic failed
Yes
Service 11
Water supply to the steam generator failed
Yes
Service 12
Water volume measurement failed
No
Service 20.x
Thermocouple fault. The suffix identifies the sensor: cabinet, control valve, humidity or steam generator
No
Service 23
Steam heating control (solid state relay)
No
Service 24
Hot air heating control (solid state relay)
No
Service 25
Insufficient water flow detected during the cleaning cycle
Yes
Service 26
Drain valve not reaching the open position
Sometimes
Service 28.1
Steam generator too hot
Yes, indirectly
Service 28.2
Cooking cabinet too hot
No
Service 34.x
Data communication fault on the internal bus
No
Service 60
Gas system failed
No
The three worth checking before you call
Service 25, and the rack that nobody moved
Service 25 appears during a CleanJet cycle. The oven measures the load on the cavity fan motor: when cleaning water hits the fan, motor demand should rise. If the control board never sees that increase, it reports Service 25.
Rational's service documentation lists the things to check, and one of them is operational, not mechanical: the position of the GN racks and the mobile oven rack. A trolley or rack left sitting incorrectly can deflect the water and produce this message on a mechanically healthy oven.
The rest of the list is water supply, inlet pressure, hoses and the CDS sensor. Check the rack position and the water supply first. If the message survives both, book it.
Service 10 and 11, and the water behind them
Service 10 is a failed self-clean cycle. Service 11 is a water supply failure to the steam generator. Both point outward at the plumbing before they point inward at the oven.
Check that the isolation valve is open, that the inlet filter is not blocked, that the supply pressure meets the figure in your installation manual, and that the cleaner cartridge is fully seated. Those four take a couple of minutes and they clear a meaningful share of these calls.
Service 28.1, and why it is really a water hardness message
Service 28.1 means the steam generator thermocouple has gone over temperature. The underlying cause is frequently calcification: scale coating the steam heating element, which then cannot transfer heat into the water and instead overheats itself.
This is the one that matters most in Australia. Hard water areas build scale in a Rational far faster than soft water areas do, and Adelaide is the obvious example. A steam generator that is descaled on schedule rarely produces this message. One that has not been descaled in years will produce it repeatedly, and eventually the element fails.
Worth separating clearly, because they get conflated.
Rational ovens also prompt for cleaning and descaling through the CleanJet and Care system. Those prompts mean the oven wants maintenance. They are part of normal operation, they are addressed by running the cycle with the correct cartridge or tabs, and they are not faults.
Service messages are faults. Ignoring a Care prompt for long enough is one of the reliable ways to eventually generate a Service message, particularly Service 28.1.
What to do when the oven stops mid-service
Note the exact message, including the decimal suffix. Service 20.1 and Service 20.8 send a technician to different sensors.
Note the serial number: Rational asks for it, and so will we.
Check the water supply and rack position if the message is 10, 11 or 25.
Power cycle once: If the message returns immediately, it is not a transient.
Do not keep restarting a gas fault: Service 60 stays off until someone qualified attends.
Our commercial combi oven repairs and broader commercial oven service cover Rational across Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Adelaide and Perth. We offer priority scheduling for urgent commercial breakdowns, planned preventative maintenance programs, and service reports with job photography for your records.
What does Service 25 mean on a Rational combi oven?
The oven did not detect the expected water flow during a cleaning cycle. Check the position of the GN racks and mobile rack, then the water supply, pressure and hoses before booking a technician.
What does Service 28 mean on a Rational?
An over-temperature reading. Service 28.1 is the steam generator, Service 28.2 is the cooking cabinet. Scale on the steam heating element is a common cause of 28.1.
Can I reset a Rational Service message myself?
A single power cycle is reasonable. If the message returns straight away it is not transient, and Rational directs these messages to a Service Partner.
Is a Rational Care or CleanJet prompt a fault?
No. Those are maintenance prompts asking you to run a cleaning or descaling cycle. Skipping them repeatedly is how you end up with an actual Service message later.
Why do I need the serial number when I report a fault?
Rational uses it to identify the exact unit generation and software version, which determines what the message means and which part fits. It shortens the diagnosis considerably.
The short version
Rational separates maintenance prompts from faults, and the Service numbers are faults. Three of them (10, 11 and 25) have upstream causes a kitchen can check in a few minutes: water supply, inlet pressure, cartridge seating, rack position. The rest belong to a technician, and Rational says so in its own instructions.
Service 28.1 is the one to read as a warning, not just an event. It usually means scale, and scale is preventable. National Appliance Repairs services Rational combi ovens nationally and offers preventative maintenance programs built around your water conditions. Enquire about commercial services or call your nearest office.
Damp clothes, a cycle that stopped early, and E:00:03 on the display. The instinct is to assume the dryer has stopped heating.
It hasn't. E:00:03 sits in the condensate water circuit. Your dryer is pulling moisture out of the load perfectly well but cannot move that water where it belongs, so it stops before it floods its own cabinet. That distinction matters, because heating faults and drainage faults lead to completely different parts. National Appliance Repairs technicians service Bosch dryers across five capitals, and this is one of the codes where owners frequently do half the fix themselves.
Reading the code format
Bosch's newer control panels display faults in a three-part format: E:00:03. Older Bosch and Siemens panels write the equivalent drainage fault simply as E03. If you have searched the short version and found results that do not match your machine, the display format is why.
Bosch's guidance for the drainage fault directs owners to the condensation drain hose, checking for a blockage or a kink. Australian field reports on E:00:03 line up with that: lint accumulation in the water system and an intermittently operating condensate pump are common findings.
Bosch does not publish a full consumer-facing code table, so check the fault code section of your model's manual to confirm before ordering any part.
How a heat pump dryer handles water
A heat pump dryer does not vent moist air outside. It runs the same air around a closed loop, cools it against an evaporator so the moisture condenses out, reheats it and sends it back through the drum.
That condensed water collects in a sump at the base of the machine. A small pump lifts it into the removable water container at the top, or out through the drain hose if you have plumbed the dryer in. Every drying cycle produces litres of water that has to go somewhere.
Block that path anywhere and the machine detects the water is not clearing. E:00:03 is the result.
What to check, in order
Step
What you are looking for
Difficulty
Water container
Full, or not seated firmly enough for the machine to register it
Easy
Drain hose (if plumbed in)
Kinks, sharp bends, blockage, hose end sitting in standing water
Easy
Fluff filter at the door
Lint, and the film of fabric softener residue that builds up under it
Work down that list. The first four cost nothing and resolve a meaningful share of cases.
Cleaning the condenser on a heat pump dryer
This is where heat pump dryers differ from older condenser dryers, and the difference trips people up.
On a traditional condenser dryer, the condenser block slides out and you rinse it under a tap. On most heat pump dryers the heat exchanger is fixed inside the machine and does not come out. What you can remove is the condenser filter in front of it. Clean that, then use a vacuum with a soft brush attachment to lift dust off the exposed fins behind it.
Be careful with the fins. They are thin metal, they bend easily, and bent fins reduce airflow permanently. The edges are sharp enough to cut.
Bosch typically recommends cleaning the condenser filter every few cycles. In practice, most machines we attend have not had it touched since installation.
Where the line sits between you and a technician
You can clean filters, empty containers, clear the drain hose and vacuum the accessible face of the heat exchanger. All of that is routine maintenance and it is in your manual.
Past that point the machine has to come apart. The condensate pump sits behind panels, alongside mains wiring, and the sealed refrigerant circuit that makes a heat pump dryer work is not user-serviceable under any circumstances. Refrigerant work is licensed work in Australia. If the code persists after you have cleaned everything reachable, the pump, the float switch or the wiring back to the control board needs testing with a meter.
Being straight about that division is the point. A heat pump dryer is an expensive appliance, and the economics usually favour repair over replacement, but only if the right part gets replaced.
Our heat pump dryer repair service covers Bosch models specifically, and sits alongside our general dryer repairs for vented and condenser units. Call NAR’s local branch, and tell us the code and whether you have already cleaned the filters. If you have, we bring a pump.
Preventing it from happening again
Empty the water container after every cycle: Not when the light comes on. Every cycle.
Clean the door fluff filter after every load: Lint that gets past the filter is what eventually ends up in the sump.
Clean the condenser filter every few cycles: Rinse it, let it dry fully, and reseat it properly.
Rinse the filter, do not just brush it dry: Fabric softener leaves a film that dry brushing does not remove, and that film traps the next round of lint.
If the dryer is plumbed in, check the hose run twice a year: A hose that has been pushed against a wall during cleaning develops a kink that nobody notices for months.
Hard water accelerates deposits through the water circuit, which is worth knowing if you are in Adelaide or another hard-water area. Our guide to how Australian conditions wear out appliances covers where that matters most.
Frequently asked questions
What does E:00:03 mean on a Bosch dryer?
It is a condensate drainage fault. The dryer is condensing moisture from the load but cannot clear that water to the container or the drain, so it stops the cycle.
Is E:00:03 the same as E03?
They refer to the same drainage fault family. Newer Bosch panels use the three-part E:00:03 format; older panels display E03. Confirm against your model's manual before ordering parts.
Can I fix a Bosch E:00:03 error myself?
Often, yes. Empty the water container, check the drain hose for kinks and blockages, and clean the fluff filter and condenser filter. If the code persists after all of that, the condensate pump needs testing.
Why does my Bosch dryer say the water container is full when it is empty?
Usually a blockage between the sump and the container, or lint around the pump inlet. The machine detects that water is not clearing and reports it the only way it can.
Should I repair or replace a heat pump dryer with this fault?
A drainage fault is one of the cheaper repairs on an expensive appliance, so repair usually makes sense. Our repair or replace framework sets out how to weigh age against repair cost.
The short version
E:00:03 is about water, not heat. Start with the container, the drain hose and the filters, because those four checks are free and they resolve a good proportion of these calls. If the code survives a thorough clean, the condensate pump or its float switch is the next candidate and that needs a meter and panels off.
National Appliance Repairs services Bosch heat pump dryers in Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Adelaide and Perth, with upfront quotes and a 12-month parts warranty. Book online or call your nearest office.
