Two gas cooktop problems account for most of the calls we get. The burner clicks but never catches. Or it lights, and goes out the moment you let go of the knob.
The second one often isn’t a fault at all. National Appliance Repairs services gas cooktops across Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Adelaide and Perth, and this guide covers what you can check safely, and where the job becomes licensed gas work.
If you can smell gas
Stop here first. Turn the burner off, turn off the gas supply to the cooktop if you can, open windows and doors, and don’t use electrical switches or naked flames. Call a licensed gasfitter, or your gas distributor’s emergency line. Don’t try to diagnose a cooktop that smells of gas.
It lights, then goes out when you let go
Many gas cooktops have a flame failure device on each burner. It’s a safety feature: if the flame blows out, it cuts the gas to that burner.
The device needs a few seconds of heat before it holds the gas open. Fisher & Paykel’s user guide puts it plainly: on flame failure models, hold the knob down for approximately five seconds after the burner has lit. Releasing it too soon puts the flame out.
So before anything else:
- Light the burner and keep the knob pressed in for five seconds or a little longer.
- Release slowly.
- If it stays lit, nothing is wrong.
If the burner still goes out after a full hold, the flame isn’t heating the sensor properly. The cause might be a burner cap that isn’t seated, a sensor that has been knocked out of position during cleaning, or a failed sensor or gas valve. The first you can fix. The rest are licensed gas work.
It clicks but won’t light
| What’s happening | Likely cause | Who fixes it |
|---|---|---|
| One burner clicks, others work | Wet, dirty or misaligned burner parts on that burner | Usually you |
| All burners click, none light | Gas supply off, or an empty gas bottle | You, or your gas supplier |
| No click at all | No power to the ignition, or an ignition fault | Check power, then a technician |
| Lights, keeps clicking after it’s lit | Igniter wet or dirty, or burner cap misaligned | Usually you |
| Lights, then goes out on release | Flame failure device not heated long enough | Hold for five seconds; then a technician |
One burner won’t catch
The usual cause is a spill. Food, water or cleaning product on the igniter, or burner parts sitting slightly off after a clean.
- Turn everything off and let it cool.
- Lift off the burner cap and burner head, and check they’re dry and clean. Clear blocked gas ports with a soft brush, not anything sharp.
- Dry the igniter with a soft dry cloth.
- Refit the parts so they sit flat. Fisher & Paykel’s guide points to a cap that isn’t sitting flat as the cause of an uneven flame.
- Try again.
If a burner doesn’t light within 15 seconds, Fisher & Paykel’s guidance is to turn it off and wait before trying again, so gas doesn’t build up.
No burners will light
Check the gas is on at the supply. On LPG, check the bottle isn’t empty and the valve is open. If other gas appliances aren’t working either, the problem is the supply, not the cooktop.
During a power cut
Electronic ignition needs power, but the gas doesn’t. Fisher & Paykel’s guide notes that you can still use the cooktop during an electricity failure by lighting the burner manually, as the user guide describes. Follow your own model’s instructions.
Yellow or uneven flames
A healthy gas flame is mostly blue. A lazy yellow flame, sooting on pans, or a flame that’s uneven around the burner usually means a cap or head that’s misaligned or blocked. If cleaning and reseating don’t fix it, the cooktop may not be set up correctly for your gas type. Natural gas and LPG need different settings. That is gasfitting work, and our guide to gas cooktop installation explains why.
Where you stop
You can clean, dry and reseat burner parts, check the supply, and hold the knob correctly. Anything involving the gas valve, the flame failure device, the gas connection or the ignition module is a job for a licensed technician.
Our gas cooktop repair service covers gas cooktops across all five capitals, with gas work carried out by appropriately licensed technicians, upfront quoting, and a 12-month parts warranty with a 3-month labour warranty.
Call:
- Melbourne 03 9123 0548
- Sydney 02 9621 5988
- Brisbane 07 3166 9770
- Adelaide 08 7123 4027 or
- Perth 08 9470 4450
Tell us the brand and which burners are affected.
If you’re thinking about replacing gas with induction, our guide to induction cooktop error codes covers what to expect.
Frequently asked questions
Why does my gas burner go out when I let go of the knob?
Many cooktops have a flame failure device that needs a few seconds of heat. Fisher & Paykel’s guide says to hold the knob for about five seconds after the burner lights.
Why does my gas cooktop click but not light?
Usually a wet or dirty igniter, or burner parts not sitting flat. If no burners light, check the gas supply.
Why does my gas cooktop keep clicking after the burner is lit?
Commonly a wet or dirty igniter, or a cap that isn’t seated. Dry and reseat the parts.
Can I use my gas cooktop in a power cut?
Usually, yes, by lighting the burner manually as your user guide describes. The ignition needs power; the gas doesn’t.
Can I replace a flame failure device myself?
No. It’s part of the gas safety system and needs a licensed technician.
The short version
If a burner goes out when you let go, hold the knob for five seconds after it lights. If it clicks without catching, dry and reseat the burner parts, and check the gas supply. If you smell gas, stop and call.
Anything past cleaning and the supply is licensed gas work. National Appliance Repairs services gas cooktops across five capitals with upfront quoting. Book online or call your nearest office.
Sources to link at publish: Fisher & Paykel, gas cooktop user guide (NZ AU GB IE, CG603 and CG903 models)
