E6 on a Fisher & Paykel freestanding dishwasher is a drain fault – the machine couldn't clear the tub within the required time, the cycle stopped, and there's usually standing water at the bottom. A blocked filter is the cause in most cases, which makes it one of the more straightforward fault codes to resolve at home.
National Appliance Repairs services Fisher & Paykel dishwashers across Australia, with same-day appointments in Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Perth, and Adelaide.
What the E6 Code Means
When the E6 error appears, the dishwasher's control board has determined that water drainage failed during the drain phase of the wash cycle. The machine stops to prevent it from cycling through the rest of the programme with an undrained tub.
The drain system on a Fisher & Paykel freestanding dishwasher includes the filter assembly at the bottom of the tub, the drain pump, and the drain hose that connects to the household waste pipe. A restriction anywhere in this path can trigger E6.
Cause
How Common
DIY Fix?
Clogged filter
Very common
Yes
Kinked or blocked drain hose
Common
Yes
Debris in drain pump
Common
Yes
Incorrect drain hose installation
Moderate
Yes
Failed drain pump motor
Less common
No
PCB or wiring fault
Rare
No
Safety Before You Start
Turn the dishwasher off at the power point before reaching into the tub or accessing any components. If the cycle was interrupted recently, the water at the bottom of the tub may still be hot – give it 15–20 minutes before handling.
Step 1: Clean the Filter
Remove the lower rack and twist the filter cap counterclockwise to release the assembly. Separate the coarse outer mesh from the fine inner filter – both can be clogged independently. Rinse both under hot running water until clear; a brief soak in warm water with a small amount of dishwasher detergent will shift a stubborn greasy film. Check the housing in the tub floor for any remaining debris before reinstalling. Seat and lock the filter correctly – an improperly installed filter will trigger further faults. Run a short rinse cycle to confirm E6 has cleared.
Step 2: Inspect the Drain Pump
With the filter out, shine a torch into the sump beneath it. Small debris – glass fragments, foil seals, olive stones – can bypass a damaged or incorrectly seated filter and jam the impeller. Wearing protective gloves, feel carefully around the pump area for anything that isn't visible from above. If you can reach the impeller, check it rotates freely. A seized impeller with an audible motor means the pump needs replacing.
Step 3: Check the Drain Hose
Trace the hose from the back of the machine to the waste trap connection under the sink. Feel for kinks, flattened sections, and areas compressed behind cabinet panels. The hose should run a high loop before dropping to the drain connection to prevent back-siphoning. At the spigot, check for grease and debris accumulation – this junction narrows gradually in older installations and is a common restriction point that doesn't announce itself until drainage fails. If the hose end sits in standing water at the trap, reposition it so it enters the spigot cleanly.
Step 4: Reset and Test
Switch the machine off at the wall for 60 seconds, then back on. Select a short rinse programme and listen through the first drain phase – the pump should be audible and the water level in the tub should drop. No returning E6 means the fault is resolved.
When the Drain Pump Has Failed
Clean filter, clear hose, E6 still appearing – the pump motor has likely failed. Confirming it requires a resistance measurement across the pump windings; a reading significantly outside the expected range indicates winding failure. Replacing the pump means removing access panels and disconnecting wiring – the right point to hand the job to a technician.
Keeping E6 From Coming Back
Most E6 faults are preventable. The filter is the highest-maintenance point – clean it weekly for daily use, or every three to four cycles for lighter loads. A monthly hot empty cycle with a cleaning tablet keeps grease from building up further down the system, inside the pump housing and hose where it's harder to reach. Every six months, disconnect the drain hose at the trap spigot and clear any build-up at the junction. And scraping plates before loading makes a genuine difference – less food entering the machine means less reaching the filter.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does E6 mean on a Fisher & Paykel dishwasher?
Drain fault – the tub didn't clear in time. Blocked filter is the cause most often, followed by a kinked hose or pump debris.
How do I fix the E6 error on my Fisher & Paykel dishwasher?
Remove and separate the filter assembly, rinse both sections under hot water, check the sump for debris, inspect the drain hose for kinks. Fault persists after all that – the pump needs testing.
Why does my Fisher & Paykel dishwasher keep getting E6?
Filter not being cleaned often enough, or a partial hose blockage that's reducing flow without stopping it. Recurring E6 despite clean filters and a clear hose means the pump motor is likely deteriorating.
Is E6 on a Fisher & Paykel dishwasher the same as A3 on a DishDrawer?
Same fault, different machine. E6 is freestanding; A3 is DishDrawer. Troubleshooting logic is identical, machine layout differs.
How often should I clean the filter on a Fisher & Paykel dishwasher?
Weekly for daily use, every one to two weeks for lighter loads. Monthly hot empty cycle on top of that keeps E6 away.
Book a Repair If Needed
A clean filter resolves E6 in most cases. If the fault returns after the filter and hose have both been checked, the drain pump needs professional diagnosis before the situation gets worse.
National Appliance Repairs handles Fisher & Paykel dishwasher repairs across all major Australian cities – genuine parts, upfront pricing, and a 12-month warranty on components. Call 1300 434 380 or book online.
Fisher & Paykel’s dishwasher range spans two distinct formats – the freestanding models and the DishDrawer™ – and the fault code system reflects that. F codes cover freestanding models and fundamental system functions; A codes appear predominantly on DishDrawer machines. Both series work the same way: one code, one system, a clear starting point for diagnosis.
National Appliance Repairs services the full Fisher & Paykel range across Australia, with same-day appointments in Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Perth, and Adelaide. Their technicians carry genuine parts to most jobs, completing the majority of repairs in a single visit.
How Fisher & Paykel Dishwasher Codes Work
A code appears on the display when the machine detects a fault and halts the current programme. In most cases you can attempt a soft reset – turn the machine off at the power point for 60 seconds, then back on. If the same code reappears, the underlying fault needs to be addressed. Do not continue running the machine when certain codes – particularly F1, A3 with flooding, or E6 – are active, as this can cause secondary damage.
This page covers the codes most commonly seen on Australian machines: F30, E6, A3, A6, and F1.
Fisher & Paykel Dishwasher Error Code Reference
Code
Models
Fault
Common Cause
F1
Freestanding
Flood switch activated / water in base pan
Leak, overfill, or excessive sudsing
F2
Freestanding
Motor / wash pump fault
Stalled or failed wash motor
F3
Freestanding
Temperature sensor fault
Failed NTC thermistor
F4
Freestanding
Heating element fault
Failed element or control board
F5
DishDrawer
Lid fault
Lid lock mechanism fault or misalignment
F6
Freestanding
Water fill error
No supply, closed tap, or inlet valve fault
F7
Freestanding
Drain fault
Blocked pump or drain hose
F30
DishDrawer
Flood switch activated
Water in base – drainage fault or leak
A3
DishDrawer
Drain fault
Blocked drain hose or kinked connection
A6
DishDrawer
Wash pressure / excess foam
Loose spray arm or wrong detergent
E6
Freestanding
Drain fault
Blocked filter or failed drain pump
F30 – Flood Switch Activated (DishDrawer)
F30 means water has accumulated in the base pan and triggered the flood switch. It could be a one-off overflow or the symptom of something more persistent – a reset will tell you which.
Switch the machine off and back on at the power point. If the code clears and stays clear, monitor the machine over a few cycles. If F30 keeps returning, inspect the drain hose for kinks and check where it connects to the plumbing trap spigot under the sink – debris builds up at that junction and partially blocks outflow over time. A base pan that stays wet despite a clear drain hose points to a slow internal leak requiring a technician.
E6 – Drain Fault (Freestanding Models)
E6 on freestanding Fisher & Paykel dishwashers means the machine couldn’t drain water within the set time. The filter at the bottom of the tub is the most common cause – it captures food particles from every wash cycle and needs to be cleaned regularly. To address E6:
Remove the lower basket and take out the filter assembly.
Rinse the filter thoroughly under hot running water.
Inspect the drain pump for any debris that has made it past the filter.
Check the drain hose for kinks and confirm it isn’t immersed in standing water at the waste connection.
If cleaning the filter and checking the hose doesn’t resolve E6, the drain pump itself may have failed.
A3 – Drain Fault (DishDrawer)
A3 is a drainage fault. The most reliable place to start is the connection between the drain hose and the household trap spigot under the sink – food residue accumulates there and can reduce outflow significantly without blocking it completely. Trace the hose along its full run for kinks or compression, particularly at bends near the cabinet base. If the hose and connection are both clear, the drain pump itself may be obstructed or failing.
A6 – Wash Pressure / Excess Foam (DishDrawer)
A6 indicates insufficient wash pressure or excess foam during the cycle. A spray arm that isn’t correctly seated disrupts water circulation enough to trigger the code; check that it clips firmly into its mount and rotates without resistance. If foam is the cause – most commonly from using liquid dish soap instead of dishwasher tablets – run an empty rinse cycle to clear it before reloading with the correct detergent.
F1 – Flood Switch / Leak Detected
F1 means water has reached the base pan and triggered the flood sensor. It got there one of three ways: an internal leak, an overfill, or detergent foam backing up below the tub.
Check the floor. No water visible – over-foaming is likely, switch off and let it dry out fully before restarting. Water on the floor or under the machine – disconnect power and water immediately. That’s a leak requiring a technician to find and fix before the machine runs again.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does F30 mean on a Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer?
F30 means the flood switch in the base of the DishDrawer has been activated. Water has accumulated in the base pan, typically due to a drainage issue or an internal leak. Resetting the machine and inspecting the drain hose is the first step.
What does E6 mean on a Fisher & Paykel dishwasher?
E6 is a drain fault on freestanding Fisher & Paykel models. The machine failed to drain within the required time. Start by cleaning the filter at the bottom of the tub, then check the drain hose for kinks.
What causes the A3 error on a Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer?
A3 is a drainage fault specific to the DishDrawer range. The drain hose is frequently blocked or kinked at the connection point to the household plumbing trap spigot. Check this junction first, then trace the full length of the hose for any compression.
Why does my Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer show A6?
A6 indicates insufficient wash pressure or excess foam. Check that the spray arm is correctly seated and rotating freely, and confirm you’re using dishwasher-specific tablets rather than liquid dish soap or general detergent.
How do I reset a Fisher & Paykel dishwasher?
Turn the machine off at the wall power point, leave it for 60 seconds, then turn it back on. If the fault code reappears, the underlying cause needs to be diagnosed and repaired.
Book a Fisher & Paykel Dishwasher Repair
If the steps above haven’t resolved the fault,National Appliance Repairs services the full Fisher & Paykel dishwasher range – freestanding and DishDrawer – across Australia. Genuine parts, upfront pricing before any work begins, and a 12-month warranty on components replaced. Call 1300 434 380 or book a time online.
You open the dishwasher after a cycle and find water sitting in the bottom of the tub, E22 on the display. Nine times out of ten, the fix is cleaning a filter that hasn't been touched in months. This one you can usually handle yourself.
Here's what's happening and how to sort it out. For repairs that go beyond a blocked filter, National Appliance Repairs services Bosch dishwashers across Australia's major cities, with same-day availability and a 12-month parts warranty.
What E22 Actually Means
The E22 code fires when the pressure sensor detects standing water in the sump -- the basin at the base of the tub beneath the filter -- after the drain phase. The machine stops the cycle rather than keep running with water it can't shift.
It's worth knowing how this differs from other drainage codes. E22 points squarely at the filter and sump area. E24 is a drain path issue -- a kinked hose, blocked connection, or check-valve problem. If you're seeing E24, the filter clean below won't fix it.
Start With the Filter
This clears E22 in most cases.
Turn the dishwasher off at the power outlet. Pull out the bottom rack. At the base of the tub you'll find two filters: a cylindrical coarse filter on top and a flat fine mesh filter beneath it. Rotate the coarse filter anti-clockwise and lift it out, then remove the mesh filter underneath.
Rinse both under warm running water and scrub with a soft brush -- an old toothbrush is fine. White chalky deposits are mineral scale. If there's significant buildup, soak both filters in warm water with a splash of white vinegar for 20 minutes before scrubbing. Reseat the mesh filter first, then the cylindrical one, turning it clockwise until it locks.
Run a short cycle and see if the code clears.
If the Filter Was Clean
A clean filter with a returning E22 narrows things down:
Non-return valve: A small rubber or plastic flap near the drain outlet. If it's jammed open by a food fragment, water backflows into the sump after each drain attempt. Check it moves freely.
Drain hose: Trace the hose from the back of the machine to the connection under the sink. Look for kinks, sharp bends, or compression against cabinetry. Also check the hose end isn't sitting submerged in water under the sink -- that creates a siphon that blocks drainage.
Pump area: With the filters removed, shine a torch into the sump cavity. Glass fragments and small plastic pieces sometimes get past the filter and jam the pump impeller. If you can see debris, remove it carefully with needle-nose pliers before reassembling.
Why Some People Get E22 Repeatedly
Two things make E22 a recurring problem rather than a one-off:
Water hardness. Mineral content in Australian tap water varies considerably by region. Adelaide and Perth sit at the harder end, and homes there tend to see scale accumulate in filters and drain components faster than the manufacturer's maintenance schedule accounts for. The Australian Drinking Water Guidelines outline hardness ranges across the country -- if your area runs hard, clean the filter more often than the manual suggests and run a descale cycle monthly. Running the spray arms under the tap when you do the filter clean is worth doing too; the holes block with the same mineral deposits.
Detergent and rinse aid habits. Too much detergent leaves residue that accumulates on the filter mesh. Skipping rinse aid in a hard-water area accelerates scale buildup on both the filter and the pump. Neither fix is expensive.
Maintenance to Keep E22 Away
Task
Frequency
Why
Clean filter
Monthly (fortnightly in hard-water areas)
Prevents food and scale blockages
Run a cleaner or descale cycle
Every 1--2 months
Clears mineral buildup from filter, pump, and hoses
Check drain hose for kinks
Every 6 months
Restricted hoses cause slow or incomplete drainage
Top up rinse aid
Every 1--2 months
Reduces scale on filter mesh and pump
Inspect sump area
Monthly
Catches debris before it reaches the pump
When to Call a Technician
Clean filter, clear drain hose, no visible blockage in the sump -- and E22 is still there. At that point the fault is in a component: the non-return valve may have failed outright rather than just being blocked, the pump chamber clip may need reseating, or the drain pump itself is struggling. Any of these needs a technician. Working near the pump with the machine live is an electrocution risk, and the Australian Consumer Law is worth knowing about if the fault turns out to be a manufacturing defect on a machine that isn't old.
Unusual sounds during the drain cycle -- grinding, rattling, a pump that hums but doesn't shift water -- are useful information for the technician and worth noting before they arrive.
FAQ
Can I run the dishwasher with E22 showing?
No. The cycle is locked until drainage is restored. Running it won't override the error.
How long does clearing E22 take?
Cleaning the filter is 10 to 15 minutes. Checking the drain hose and sump adds another 20 to 30. If none of that works, it's time to book a technician.
Will vinegar dissolve the scale on the filter?
Yes. Soak the filter in white vinegar for 20 to 30 minutes and most scale comes off with light scrubbing. It won't damage the mesh.
How do I know if it's E22 or E24?
E22 is standing water in the sump with the filter as the primary suspect. E24 means water can't exit through the drain line -- kinked hose, improper installation, or a drain pump or check-valve fault. Different parts of the system.
Does the 12-month parts warranty cover E22 repairs?
National Appliance Repairs backs all repair work with a 12-month parts warranty and 3-month labour warranty. If a replaced part fails within that period, it's covered.
Conclusion
Most E22 errors come down to a filter that's overdue for a clean. Pull it out, scrub it, check the sump for debris, reseat everything, and run a cycle. If the code returns, the non-return valve or drain pump needs a look. National Appliance Repairs has Bosch-experienced technicians across Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Perth, and Adelaide -- call 1300 434 380 to book, same-day where available.
If your Bosch dishwasher has suddenly stopped mid-cycle and is showing a flashing code on its display panel, you're not alone. Error codes are one of the most common reasons Australians reach out to us at National Appliance Repairs for help with, and Bosch dishwashers are some of the most popular models in homes across Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Perth, and Adelaide.
These error codes are how your dishwasher’s communicating exactly what’s wrong, and if you can read them, you can understand what caused it and, for the handier folks out there -- decide if it’s a DIY job or something to leave to a professional technician.
How Bosch Dishwasher Error Codes Work
Modern Bosch dishwashers are fitted with sensors that continuously monitor water levels, temperature, drainage, and door seals. When something falls outside expected parameters, the control board logs a fault and shows an alphanumeric error code -- usually beginning with "E" -- on the display. This system makes fault-finding much more straightforward than it was on older appliances that simply stopped working without explanation.
Some errors are minor and resolve after a simple reset. Others point to a failing component that needs professional attention before the problem causes further damage to the machine or your home.
The E15 error is one of the most frequently seen Bosch dishwasher faults in Australian homes. It means the AquaStop flood protection system has been triggered because water has collected in the base tray of the machine. When the float switch in the base pan detects moisture, it shuts off the water supply and displays E15 to prevent water damage to your kitchen floor and cabinetry.
Common causes include:
A worn or damaged door seal allowing water to seep out
A cracked or loose water inlet hose
A leaking sump seal at the base of the machine
A faulty water inlet valve
Some guides suggest tilting your dishwasher to drain the base pan -- this is not recommended, as it can cause the water to spread further into the machine's electrical components. A technician should inspect and dry the base, then identify the source of the leak before the machine is run again.
E22: Blocked Filter
The E22 code indicates that water is left sitting in the sump because the fine filter is clogged and preventing proper drainage. This is the most user-serviceable error on the list. Bosch recommends cleaning the dishwasher filter at least once a month, and Australian hard water conditions -- particularly common in Perth and Adelaide -- can accelerate calcium and mineral buildup. According to the Australian Drinking Water Guidelines, water hardness varies significantly by region, which directly affects appliance maintenance needs.
To clear an E22 error:
Remove the bottom rack and unscrew the cylindrical filter
Rinse the filter under warm water and scrub away debris with a soft brush
Check the flat mesh filter underneath for buildup
Inspect the drain hose and non-return valve for blockages
Run a short cycle and see if the code clears
If the filter is clean and E22 persists, the drain pump or non-return valve may need professional attention.
E23: Drain Pump Fault
Where E22 usually means a blocked filter, E23 points to a fault with the drain pump itself. This typically means the pump motor has failed or its electrical connection has become faulty. This is not a DIY repair -- the pump needs to be tested with a multimeter and replaced if it has failed.
E24 / E25: Drainage Blockage
E24 and E25 both relate to drainage problems but are slightly further along the system than a simple filter blockage. E24 usually points to a kinked or blocked drain hose, while E25 often means the pump cover inside the machine is loose or that a foreign object -- a broken piece of crockery, for example -- is jamming the pump impeller. Check that the drain hose has no sharp bends and that the pump cover at the bottom of the tub is properly seated.
E09: Heating Element Failure
A Bosch dishwasher showing E09 has detected a fault with the heating element, which is responsible for heating water to the correct wash temperature. According to the CHOICE appliance testing methodology, inadequate water temperature is one of the leading causes of poor dishwasher cleaning performance. An E09 error means your dishes are likely coming out not fully sanitised. This is a component-level repair that requires a qualified technician.
When to Call a Professional
You should contact a qualified appliance technician if:
The error code returns immediately after a reset
You see E01, E09, or E23, which all relate to components that cannot safely be repaired without specialist tools
There is visible water under or around the dishwasher (especially with E15)
The machine is still under warranty and you don't want to void it by opening panels yourself
FAQ
What does E15 mean on a Bosch dishwasher?
E15 means the AquaStop flood protection sensor has detected water in the base of the machine. The water supply is automatically shut off. A technician should identify and fix the source of the leak before the machine is used again.
Can I fix a Bosch dishwasher E22 error myself?
In most cases, yes. Remove and clean the filter under the bottom rack, check the drain hose for blockages, and run a short cycle. If the error returns after cleaning, a professional inspection is recommended.
Why does my Bosch dishwasher keep showing error codes?
Recurring error codes usually mean the underlying fault hasn't been fully resolved. A reset clears the display but not the problem. A qualified technician can diagnose whether a sensor, pump, or component needs replacing.
How do I reset a Bosch dishwasher after an error code?
Turn the machine off at the power point, wait 30 seconds, then turn it back on. If the error returns, the fault is still present and needs to be addressed.
Are Bosch dishwasher repairs covered by warranty in Australia?
New Bosch appliances sold in Australia come with a manufacturer's warranty. Under the Australian Consumer Law, all appliances must also be of acceptable quality and last a reasonable length of time, regardless of warranty status.
Conclusion
Understanding your Bosch dishwasher's error codes takes the mystery out of breakdowns and helps you make smarter decisions about whether to attempt a fix or call in help. Codes like E22 are often straightforward to resolve, while others like E15 and E09 point to faults that genuinely need a trained eye. If you're anywhere in Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Perth, or Adelaide and your Bosch dishwasher is showing an error code that isn't clearing, National Appliance Repairs can send a qualified technician to your door -- often on the same day you call -- with a 12-month warranty on all parts used in the repair.
The F30 error on a Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer means the flood switch inside the appliance has been activated. Water has accumulated in the base pan – the sealed cavity beneath the drawer mechanism – and the machine has stopped operating to prevent further water damage. It's one of the more alarming-looking fault codes, but in many cases it's triggered by a relatively minor issue: a blocked drain hose, an overflow from a single cycle, or the residual effect of a drainage restriction that was recently resolved.
National Appliance Repairs services Fisher & Paykel DishDrawers across Australia. If you can't clear the F30 through the steps below, their technicians can diagnose the root cause and repair it in a single visit.
Why the F30 Code Appears
F30 is specific to Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer models. The flood switch – also called the base overfill switch – sits in the base pan and remains inactive during normal operation. The moment water enters the base, the switch closes and the machine stops. It's a protective mechanism, not a fault in itself; the fault is whatever allowed water to reach the base pan.
Cause
How Common
Can I Fix It?
Blocked or kinked drain hose
Common
Yes
Debris at the drain hose–trap spigot connection
Common
Yes
One-off overflow from a large load
Common
Yes (dry out and reset)
Slow internal leak from hose or fitting
Moderate
Partly
Failed inlet valve causing continuous fill
Less common
No
Cracked tub or failed door seal
Uncommon
No
Step 1: Reset the Machine
Switch the DishDrawer off at the power point, leave it for 60 seconds, then turn it back on. If F30 clears and stays clear across a few cycles, the overflow was a one-off. If the code comes back consistently, work through the steps below.
Step 2: Inspect the Drain Hose
The drain hose is the most common cause of recurring F30. A kink or blockage at the waste trap spigot under the sink prevents proper drainage, backing water up until it reaches the base pan.
Pull the DishDrawer forward if possible, or access the hose from below the benchtop. Trace it from the machine's drain outlet to the trap spigot, feeling for kinks, sharp bends, or sections compressed behind a cabinet panel. At the spigot connection, disconnect the hose and clear any grease or debris from the junction – this point narrows over time without showing obvious signs from above. Reconnect securely. If the hose is cracked or deteriorating along its length, replace it.
Step 3: Dry Out the Base Pan
The flood switch won't reset while moisture remains in the base pan, regardless of whether the drainage fault has been fixed. Tilt the machine slightly forward to encourage pooled water toward the front where it can evaporate, or remove the kickboard panel to improve air circulation underneath. The pan can take several hours to dry completely – F30 persisting after overnight drying suggests water is still present inside.
Don't run the machine while F30 is active. Water in the base pan puts the control electronics directly at risk.
Step 4: Check for an Internal Leak
If F30 returns after multiple cycles despite a clear drain hose, there is a slow leak somewhere inside the machine. Possible sources include:
A deteriorated door seal or gasket around the drawer opening, allowing water to escape during the wash cycle.
A cracked or split hose inside the machine body.
A faulty inlet valve that allows a small continuous flow of water even when the machine isn't running.
A failed pump seal.
Locating an internal leak requires access to the machine's internal components. This is a professional repair – further disassembly without the right tools risks making the problem worse.
Preventing F30 from Recurring
Regular maintenance can eliminate most causes of F30:
Clean the drain hose connection at the trap spigot every three to six months.
Use the correct detergent – dishwasher tablets formulated for automatic dishwashers. Liquid dish soap generates foam that can overwhelm the drain system and cause overflow.
Run a maintenance cycle with a dishwasher cleaning tablet monthly to reduce grease build-up inside the drain path.
Don't overload the DishDrawer. Water can splash over the drawer seal during the wash cycle if the load is too large or items are positioned incorrectly.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does F30 mean on a Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer?
F30 means the flood switch in the base pan has been activated. Water has entered the base cavity – most commonly from a blocked drain hose, a restricted waste pipe connection, or an internal leak.
How do I reset the F30 error on my Fisher & Paykel dishwasher?
Switch the machine off at the power point for 60 seconds, then back on. If the code clears and stays clear, the overflow was isolated. If F30 returns, inspect the drain hose and waste connection, and allow the base pan to dry completely before running the machine again.
Can I run my DishDrawer while F30 is showing?
No. Water in the base pan is in direct proximity to the control electronics. Don't attempt to restart the machine until the pan is dry and the cause has been addressed.
How long does it take for the F30 error to clear after fixing the cause?
The flood switch resets automatically once the base pan is dry. In a warm, ventilated kitchen this typically takes a few hours. F30 persisting after overnight drying suggests water is still present inside.
Is F30 the same as F1 on Fisher & Paykel dishwashers?
Both indicate flood switch activation, but F30 is specific to DishDrawer models and F1 appears on freestanding Fisher & Paykel dishwashers. The troubleshooting process is essentially the same for both.
When to Book a Technician
If the drain hose and waste connection are clear, the base pan has dried, but F30 keeps returning – there is an internal leak that requires professional diagnosis. Attempting to trace and repair an internal leak without appliance servicing experience can cause further damage.
National Appliance Repairs specialises in Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer repairs across Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Perth, and Adelaide. Their technicians are equipped to locate leaks, replace seals and hoses, and restore your machine to full operation. Call 1300 434 380 or book online.
