The E18 error on a Bosch washing machine signals a drainage problem. When the machine can't empty the drum within the expected time, the E18 code appears on the display and the cycle stops – often leaving a drum full of water. On some Bosch models, the same fault appears as F18 or d02, but all three point to the same drainage issue.
The good news is that the E18 is one of the more straightforward Bosch faults to diagnose. A blocked pump filter – sitting at the bottom front of the machine – is the single most common cause, and cleaning it takes about 10 minutes without any tools. This guide walks through every cause, ranked from most likely to least, with instructions for each.
National Appliance Repairs repairs Bosch washing machines across Australia. If the steps below don't clear the fault, our technicians carry Bosch-compatible parts and offer same-day callouts in most metro areas.
What the E18 Code Actually Means
When the drain pump runs but the water level doesn't drop fast enough, the control board calls it. E18 is that call – a timed drainage check that the machine failed, with the cycle halted until the fault is cleared.
Most of the time the cause is mechanical and accessible: a blocked filter, a jammed impeller, or a hose with a kink in it. A drain hose installed too low – letting water siphon back into the drum as fast as the pump removes it – can produce an E18 that looks inexplicable until you check the hose routing. Pump failure is the remaining possibility, and the least common of the three.
Causes of the Bosch E18 Error
Cause
How Common
DIY Fixable?
Blocked drain pump filter
Very common
Yes
Kinked or blocked drain hose
Common
Yes
Foreign object in pump impeller
Common
Yes
Drain hose installed too low
Moderate
Yes
Faulty drain pump motor
Less common
No
Main PCB fault
Rare
No
Step 1: Drain the Machine Before You Start
With water still in the drum, drain it manually before accessing the pump filter:
Turn the machine off and unplug it from the power point.
Open the service flap at the bottom front – a small panel that pops off or unclips.
Place a shallow tray under the flap. Inside you'll find a black drainage hose and the pump filter cap.
Remove the drainage hose cap and let the water drain into the container. Repeat until empty.
Take care with hot cycles – the water may still be very hot.
Step 2: Clean the Pump Filter
The filter is behind the same flap as the drainage hose – a counterclockwise-unscrewing circular cap, typically on the right side.
Drain the drum first, then remove the cap and pull the filter out. Rinse it under running water, clearing out hair, lint, coins, or anything else that's collected there. Shine a torch into the housing to check for remaining debris, then spin the pump impeller with your finger. It should turn freely – any resistance points to an object lodged deeper in the pump.
Reinstall the filter and screw it in fully. A loose cap leaks. That's the whole job in most cases, but confirm it's worked by pouring a litre of water into the detergent drawer and running the drain programme before putting a load on.
Step 3: Inspect the Drain Hose
Run your hand along the full length of the hose, feeling for kinks or flattened sections behind the cabinet. Check where the outlet ends – it needs to be 60–100 cm off the floor. Any lower and water siphons back into the drum mid-drain, which produces an E18 that no amount of filter cleaning will fix. Disconnect at the sink end and flush the hose through before reconnecting.
Step 4: Check the Drain Pump
When the filter is clean, the hose is clear, and E18 is still showing, the pump motor is the remaining suspect. Listen during the drain phase – a motor humming without water movement means the impeller is seized. Drainage that works sometimes but not others points to failing motor windings. Replacing the pump means tipping the machine and disconnecting the wiring harnesses. That's a technician job.
Preventing E18 Errors
A few habits keep the drain system clear between services:
Run a monthly empty cycle on the hottest available programme with a washing machine cleaning tablet to dissolve lint and detergent residue.
Check pockets before loading – coins, hairpins, and small clips are the most common items found in blocked pump filters.
Clean the filter every two to three months even if there's no fault code showing.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does E18 mean on a Bosch washing machine?
E18 means the washing machine wasn't able to drain water within the required time. The fault is most commonly caused by a blocked drain pump filter, a kinked drain hose, or a foreign object caught in the pump impeller.
How do I fix the E18 error on my Bosch washing machine myself?
Start by manually draining the drum using the small hose inside the service flap at the bottom front of the machine. Then unscrew the pump filter cap, remove any debris, rinse the filter, and confirm the impeller spins freely. Reinstall the filter securely and run the drain programme to test.
Where is the pump filter on a Bosch washing machine?
The pump filter is behind the service flap at the bottom front right of the machine. The flap either pops off or has a small push-button release. Behind it you'll find both the manual drain hose and the circular filter cap.
Can a kinked hose cause the E18 error?
Yes. A kinked drain hose restricts water flow enough to prevent the pump from clearing the drum in time, triggering E18. Check the hose along its full length from the machine to the wall connection, especially at any bends.
Is E18 the same as F18 on a Bosch washing machine?
Yes – E18 and F18 indicate the same drain fault. Some Bosch models also display this as d02. The cause and troubleshooting process are identical regardless of which version of the code your machine shows.
When to Book a Repair
If the pump filter and drain hose are both clear and the E18 error continues, the fault is inside the machine – most likely the pump motor or the main PCB. These repairs require technical diagnosis and should be handled by a qualified technician.
National Appliance Repairs services Bosch washing machines across Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Adelaide, and Perth. Upfront pricing, genuine parts, and a 12-month warranty on all components – call 1300 434 380 or book online.
A washing machine that washes but won't spin leaves clothes too wet to dry in any reasonable time. The spin cycle is where most of the water is extracted – when it fails or runs well below speed, the result is immediately obvious. Some causes are quick to identify and fix at home; others point to a mechanical fault that needs professional attention.
National Appliance Repairs repairs washing machines across Australia, including same-day callouts in Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Perth, and Adelaide.
Common Causes at a Glance
Cause
Front Loader
Top Loader
DIY Fix?
Unbalanced or overloaded drum
Very common
Very common
Yes
Drainage fault (water still in drum)
Common
Common
Yes
Door latch / lid switch fault
Common
Common
Partly
Machine not level
Moderate
Moderate
Yes
Worn or broken drive belt
Moderate
N/A
No
Faulty door lock mechanism
Moderate
N/A
No
Failed motor or motor control board
Less common
Less common
No
Worn drum bearings
Less common
Less common
No
Step 1: Redistribute the Load
An unbalanced load is the most frequent cause of a spin cycle that won't complete. The machine's sensors detect that the weight distribution is uneven and reduce speed – or stop spinning entirely – to prevent the drum from violently oscillating during a high-speed cycle.
Bulky single items are the most common trigger – a duvet, a bath mat, or a pair of jeans washed alone will clump to one side during spin and set off the imbalance detection. Open the door, redistribute the load so weight is spread evenly around the drum, and restart the spin or drain-and-spin programme.
Overloading causes the same result by a different route – too much weight prevents even distribution, the sensors detect the strain, and spin speed is reduced or the cycle aborted entirely. Reduce the load and try again.
Step 2: Check Whether the Machine Has Drained
A washing machine won't spin if there's still water in the drum. The two faults are linked – if the drain pump, filter, or hose has an issue, the machine will complete the wash but abort the drain and spin phases.
Check for standing water at the bottom of the drum after the cycle ends. If there is water present, address the drainage fault first – clean the pump filter, inspect the drain hose for kinks, and refer to ourwashing machine not draining guide for the full process. Once drainage is confirmed, the spin cycle should resume normally.
Step 3: Check the Door Latch or Lid Switch
Front-loaders won't spin unless the door lock has engaged – it's a safety interlock, not a suggestion. Check that the door closes fully and clicks into place, that no clothing is caught in the door seal preventing a complete close, and that the lock mechanism isn't visibly damaged or misaligned.
On top-loaders, the lid switch does the same job. A faulty switch reads the lid as permanently open and blocks both draining and spinning. Close the lid and listen for a click – no click means the switch needs replacing.
Step 4: Level the Machine
A machine that isn't sitting level vibrates excessively during spin and will often trigger its own imbalance detection to abort the cycle. Place a spirit level on top of the machine and adjust the levelling feet until it sits stable on all four corners. Lock the feet once set – spin vibration gradually shifts them over time, particularly on older tiles or uneven laundry floors.
Step 5: Check the Drive Belt (Front Loaders)
Front-loaders that use a belt-and-pulley system can lose the ability to spin entirely if the belt wears through or snaps. The motor will still run – you can hear it – but the drum won't turn. A burning rubber smell after a failed spin attempt, or belt fragments visible through the pump filter access panel, confirm the diagnosis. Replacing the drive belt requires opening the machine cabinet – a technician repair.
Other Mechanical Causes
When load, drainage, door lock, and levelling have all been checked and the drum still won't spin, the fault is inside the machine.
The motor control board is the first suspect – it regulates voltage and spin speed, and a failed board will typically produce error codes alongside the spin failure, which makes it easier to identify.
A seized or burned-out drive motor is less common but produces the same symptom: no spin, no drum movement at all.
Worn drum bearings are worth considering if there's a grinding or rumbling sound during spin that wasn't there before – deteriorating bearings allow the drum to wobble at high speed, and the machine reduces spin or aborts the cycle to protect itself.
None of these are accessible without disassembly, and all three need a technician.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my washing machine fill and wash but not spin?
Usually one of three things: an unbalanced load that triggered the machine's imbalance detection, water still in the drum from a drainage fault, or a door latch or lid switch that isn't engaging. Check them in that order – most spin failures have a straightforward cause before you get to mechanical faults.
Why does my front-loader spin slowly or not reach full speed?
An uneven or overloaded drum and incomplete draining are the two most common reasons. If the load is balanced and drainage is confirmed, worn bearings or a failing motor control board are the next things to investigate.
Can excess detergent prevent spinning?
Yes, indirectly. Too much detergent generates foam that the water level sensor reads as undrained water. The machine holds off on spinning until it's confident the drum is clear. Correct detergent quantity and a rinse cycle to clear existing suds will resolve it.
How do I force a spin cycle on my washing machine?
Use the dedicated spin or drain-and-spin programme with the load redistributed. A machine that aborts the spin immediately after starting is detecting either an imbalance or a drainage issue – fix the underlying cause rather than repeatedly forcing the cycle.
Is it worth repairing a washing machine that won't spin?
For most faults on machines under ten years old, yes. A door lock, drive belt, or drain pump repair is straightforward and significantly cheaper than replacement. Bearing failure or motor failure on an older machine is where the economics shift.National Appliance Repairs gives you an upfront assessment before committing to any repair.
When to Book a Technician
Load redistribution, drainage checks, and levelling are all DIY territory. A faulty door lock, broken drive belt, worn bearings, or failed motor require professional diagnosis.National Appliance Repairs services washing machines across Australia with same-day availability in most metro areas. Call 1300 434 380 or book online.
E6 on a Fisher & Paykel freestanding dishwasher is a drain fault – the machine couldn't clear the tub within the required time, the cycle stopped, and there's usually standing water at the bottom. A blocked filter is the cause in most cases, which makes it one of the more straightforward fault codes to resolve at home.
National Appliance Repairs services Fisher & Paykel dishwashers across Australia, with same-day appointments in Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Perth, and Adelaide.
What the E6 Code Means
When the E6 error appears, the dishwasher's control board has determined that water drainage failed during the drain phase of the wash cycle. The machine stops to prevent it from cycling through the rest of the programme with an undrained tub.
The drain system on a Fisher & Paykel freestanding dishwasher includes the filter assembly at the bottom of the tub, the drain pump, and the drain hose that connects to the household waste pipe. A restriction anywhere in this path can trigger E6.
Cause
How Common
DIY Fix?
Clogged filter
Very common
Yes
Kinked or blocked drain hose
Common
Yes
Debris in drain pump
Common
Yes
Incorrect drain hose installation
Moderate
Yes
Failed drain pump motor
Less common
No
PCB or wiring fault
Rare
No
Safety Before You Start
Turn the dishwasher off at the power point before reaching into the tub or accessing any components. If the cycle was interrupted recently, the water at the bottom of the tub may still be hot – give it 15–20 minutes before handling.
Step 1: Clean the Filter
Remove the lower rack and twist the filter cap counterclockwise to release the assembly. Separate the coarse outer mesh from the fine inner filter – both can be clogged independently. Rinse both under hot running water until clear; a brief soak in warm water with a small amount of dishwasher detergent will shift a stubborn greasy film. Check the housing in the tub floor for any remaining debris before reinstalling. Seat and lock the filter correctly – an improperly installed filter will trigger further faults. Run a short rinse cycle to confirm E6 has cleared.
Step 2: Inspect the Drain Pump
With the filter out, shine a torch into the sump beneath it. Small debris – glass fragments, foil seals, olive stones – can bypass a damaged or incorrectly seated filter and jam the impeller. Wearing protective gloves, feel carefully around the pump area for anything that isn't visible from above. If you can reach the impeller, check it rotates freely. A seized impeller with an audible motor means the pump needs replacing.
Step 3: Check the Drain Hose
Trace the hose from the back of the machine to the waste trap connection under the sink. Feel for kinks, flattened sections, and areas compressed behind cabinet panels. The hose should run a high loop before dropping to the drain connection to prevent back-siphoning. At the spigot, check for grease and debris accumulation – this junction narrows gradually in older installations and is a common restriction point that doesn't announce itself until drainage fails. If the hose end sits in standing water at the trap, reposition it so it enters the spigot cleanly.
Step 4: Reset and Test
Switch the machine off at the wall for 60 seconds, then back on. Select a short rinse programme and listen through the first drain phase – the pump should be audible and the water level in the tub should drop. No returning E6 means the fault is resolved.
When the Drain Pump Has Failed
Clean filter, clear hose, E6 still appearing – the pump motor has likely failed. Confirming it requires a resistance measurement across the pump windings; a reading significantly outside the expected range indicates winding failure. Replacing the pump means removing access panels and disconnecting wiring – the right point to hand the job to a technician.
Keeping E6 From Coming Back
Most E6 faults are preventable. The filter is the highest-maintenance point – clean it weekly for daily use, or every three to four cycles for lighter loads. A monthly hot empty cycle with a cleaning tablet keeps grease from building up further down the system, inside the pump housing and hose where it's harder to reach. Every six months, disconnect the drain hose at the trap spigot and clear any build-up at the junction. And scraping plates before loading makes a genuine difference – less food entering the machine means less reaching the filter.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does E6 mean on a Fisher & Paykel dishwasher?
Drain fault – the tub didn't clear in time. Blocked filter is the cause most often, followed by a kinked hose or pump debris.
How do I fix the E6 error on my Fisher & Paykel dishwasher?
Remove and separate the filter assembly, rinse both sections under hot water, check the sump for debris, inspect the drain hose for kinks. Fault persists after all that – the pump needs testing.
Why does my Fisher & Paykel dishwasher keep getting E6?
Filter not being cleaned often enough, or a partial hose blockage that's reducing flow without stopping it. Recurring E6 despite clean filters and a clear hose means the pump motor is likely deteriorating.
Is E6 on a Fisher & Paykel dishwasher the same as A3 on a DishDrawer?
Same fault, different machine. E6 is freestanding; A3 is DishDrawer. Troubleshooting logic is identical, machine layout differs.
How often should I clean the filter on a Fisher & Paykel dishwasher?
Weekly for daily use, every one to two weeks for lighter loads. Monthly hot empty cycle on top of that keeps E6 away.
Book a Repair If Needed
A clean filter resolves E6 in most cases. If the fault returns after the filter and hose have both been checked, the drain pump needs professional diagnosis before the situation gets worse.
National Appliance Repairs handles Fisher & Paykel dishwasher repairs across all major Australian cities – genuine parts, upfront pricing, and a 12-month warranty on components. Call 1300 434 380 or book online.
Fisher & Paykel’s dishwasher range spans two distinct formats – the freestanding models and the DishDrawer™ – and the fault code system reflects that. F codes cover freestanding models and fundamental system functions; A codes appear predominantly on DishDrawer machines. Both series work the same way: one code, one system, a clear starting point for diagnosis.
National Appliance Repairs services the full Fisher & Paykel range across Australia, with same-day appointments in Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Perth, and Adelaide. Their technicians carry genuine parts to most jobs, completing the majority of repairs in a single visit.
How Fisher & Paykel Dishwasher Codes Work
A code appears on the display when the machine detects a fault and halts the current programme. In most cases you can attempt a soft reset – turn the machine off at the power point for 60 seconds, then back on. If the same code reappears, the underlying fault needs to be addressed. Do not continue running the machine when certain codes – particularly F1, A3 with flooding, or E6 – are active, as this can cause secondary damage.
This page covers the codes most commonly seen on Australian machines: F30, E6, A3, A6, and F1.
Fisher & Paykel Dishwasher Error Code Reference
Code
Models
Fault
Common Cause
F1
Freestanding
Flood switch activated / water in base pan
Leak, overfill, or excessive sudsing
F2
Freestanding
Motor / wash pump fault
Stalled or failed wash motor
F3
Freestanding
Temperature sensor fault
Failed NTC thermistor
F4
Freestanding
Heating element fault
Failed element or control board
F5
DishDrawer
Lid fault
Lid lock mechanism fault or misalignment
F6
Freestanding
Water fill error
No supply, closed tap, or inlet valve fault
F7
Freestanding
Drain fault
Blocked pump or drain hose
F30
DishDrawer
Flood switch activated
Water in base – drainage fault or leak
A3
DishDrawer
Drain fault
Blocked drain hose or kinked connection
A6
DishDrawer
Wash pressure / excess foam
Loose spray arm or wrong detergent
E6
Freestanding
Drain fault
Blocked filter or failed drain pump
F30 – Flood Switch Activated (DishDrawer)
F30 means water has accumulated in the base pan and triggered the flood switch. It could be a one-off overflow or the symptom of something more persistent – a reset will tell you which.
Switch the machine off and back on at the power point. If the code clears and stays clear, monitor the machine over a few cycles. If F30 keeps returning, inspect the drain hose for kinks and check where it connects to the plumbing trap spigot under the sink – debris builds up at that junction and partially blocks outflow over time. A base pan that stays wet despite a clear drain hose points to a slow internal leak requiring a technician.
E6 – Drain Fault (Freestanding Models)
E6 on freestanding Fisher & Paykel dishwashers means the machine couldn’t drain water within the set time. The filter at the bottom of the tub is the most common cause – it captures food particles from every wash cycle and needs to be cleaned regularly. To address E6:
Remove the lower basket and take out the filter assembly.
Rinse the filter thoroughly under hot running water.
Inspect the drain pump for any debris that has made it past the filter.
Check the drain hose for kinks and confirm it isn’t immersed in standing water at the waste connection.
If cleaning the filter and checking the hose doesn’t resolve E6, the drain pump itself may have failed.
A3 – Drain Fault (DishDrawer)
A3 is a drainage fault. The most reliable place to start is the connection between the drain hose and the household trap spigot under the sink – food residue accumulates there and can reduce outflow significantly without blocking it completely. Trace the hose along its full run for kinks or compression, particularly at bends near the cabinet base. If the hose and connection are both clear, the drain pump itself may be obstructed or failing.
A6 – Wash Pressure / Excess Foam (DishDrawer)
A6 indicates insufficient wash pressure or excess foam during the cycle. A spray arm that isn’t correctly seated disrupts water circulation enough to trigger the code; check that it clips firmly into its mount and rotates without resistance. If foam is the cause – most commonly from using liquid dish soap instead of dishwasher tablets – run an empty rinse cycle to clear it before reloading with the correct detergent.
F1 – Flood Switch / Leak Detected
F1 means water has reached the base pan and triggered the flood sensor. It got there one of three ways: an internal leak, an overfill, or detergent foam backing up below the tub.
Check the floor. No water visible – over-foaming is likely, switch off and let it dry out fully before restarting. Water on the floor or under the machine – disconnect power and water immediately. That’s a leak requiring a technician to find and fix before the machine runs again.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does F30 mean on a Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer?
F30 means the flood switch in the base of the DishDrawer has been activated. Water has accumulated in the base pan, typically due to a drainage issue or an internal leak. Resetting the machine and inspecting the drain hose is the first step.
What does E6 mean on a Fisher & Paykel dishwasher?
E6 is a drain fault on freestanding Fisher & Paykel models. The machine failed to drain within the required time. Start by cleaning the filter at the bottom of the tub, then check the drain hose for kinks.
What causes the A3 error on a Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer?
A3 is a drainage fault specific to the DishDrawer range. The drain hose is frequently blocked or kinked at the connection point to the household plumbing trap spigot. Check this junction first, then trace the full length of the hose for any compression.
Why does my Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer show A6?
A6 indicates insufficient wash pressure or excess foam. Check that the spray arm is correctly seated and rotating freely, and confirm you’re using dishwasher-specific tablets rather than liquid dish soap or general detergent.
How do I reset a Fisher & Paykel dishwasher?
Turn the machine off at the wall power point, leave it for 60 seconds, then turn it back on. If the fault code reappears, the underlying cause needs to be diagnosed and repaired.
Book a Fisher & Paykel Dishwasher Repair
If the steps above haven’t resolved the fault,National Appliance Repairs services the full Fisher & Paykel dishwasher range – freestanding and DishDrawer – across Australia. Genuine parts, upfront pricing before any work begins, and a 12-month warranty on components replaced. Call 1300 434 380 or book a time online.
The F30 error on a Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer means the flood switch inside the appliance has been activated. Water has accumulated in the base pan – the sealed cavity beneath the drawer mechanism – and the machine has stopped operating to prevent further water damage. It's one of the more alarming-looking fault codes, but in many cases it's triggered by a relatively minor issue: a blocked drain hose, an overflow from a single cycle, or the residual effect of a drainage restriction that was recently resolved.
National Appliance Repairs services Fisher & Paykel DishDrawers across Australia. If you can't clear the F30 through the steps below, their technicians can diagnose the root cause and repair it in a single visit.
Why the F30 Code Appears
F30 is specific to Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer models. The flood switch – also called the base overfill switch – sits in the base pan and remains inactive during normal operation. The moment water enters the base, the switch closes and the machine stops. It's a protective mechanism, not a fault in itself; the fault is whatever allowed water to reach the base pan.
Cause
How Common
Can I Fix It?
Blocked or kinked drain hose
Common
Yes
Debris at the drain hose–trap spigot connection
Common
Yes
One-off overflow from a large load
Common
Yes (dry out and reset)
Slow internal leak from hose or fitting
Moderate
Partly
Failed inlet valve causing continuous fill
Less common
No
Cracked tub or failed door seal
Uncommon
No
Step 1: Reset the Machine
Switch the DishDrawer off at the power point, leave it for 60 seconds, then turn it back on. If F30 clears and stays clear across a few cycles, the overflow was a one-off. If the code comes back consistently, work through the steps below.
Step 2: Inspect the Drain Hose
The drain hose is the most common cause of recurring F30. A kink or blockage at the waste trap spigot under the sink prevents proper drainage, backing water up until it reaches the base pan.
Pull the DishDrawer forward if possible, or access the hose from below the benchtop. Trace it from the machine's drain outlet to the trap spigot, feeling for kinks, sharp bends, or sections compressed behind a cabinet panel. At the spigot connection, disconnect the hose and clear any grease or debris from the junction – this point narrows over time without showing obvious signs from above. Reconnect securely. If the hose is cracked or deteriorating along its length, replace it.
Step 3: Dry Out the Base Pan
The flood switch won't reset while moisture remains in the base pan, regardless of whether the drainage fault has been fixed. Tilt the machine slightly forward to encourage pooled water toward the front where it can evaporate, or remove the kickboard panel to improve air circulation underneath. The pan can take several hours to dry completely – F30 persisting after overnight drying suggests water is still present inside.
Don't run the machine while F30 is active. Water in the base pan puts the control electronics directly at risk.
Step 4: Check for an Internal Leak
If F30 returns after multiple cycles despite a clear drain hose, there is a slow leak somewhere inside the machine. Possible sources include:
A deteriorated door seal or gasket around the drawer opening, allowing water to escape during the wash cycle.
A cracked or split hose inside the machine body.
A faulty inlet valve that allows a small continuous flow of water even when the machine isn't running.
A failed pump seal.
Locating an internal leak requires access to the machine's internal components. This is a professional repair – further disassembly without the right tools risks making the problem worse.
Preventing F30 from Recurring
Regular maintenance can eliminate most causes of F30:
Clean the drain hose connection at the trap spigot every three to six months.
Use the correct detergent – dishwasher tablets formulated for automatic dishwashers. Liquid dish soap generates foam that can overwhelm the drain system and cause overflow.
Run a maintenance cycle with a dishwasher cleaning tablet monthly to reduce grease build-up inside the drain path.
Don't overload the DishDrawer. Water can splash over the drawer seal during the wash cycle if the load is too large or items are positioned incorrectly.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does F30 mean on a Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer?
F30 means the flood switch in the base pan has been activated. Water has entered the base cavity – most commonly from a blocked drain hose, a restricted waste pipe connection, or an internal leak.
How do I reset the F30 error on my Fisher & Paykel dishwasher?
Switch the machine off at the power point for 60 seconds, then back on. If the code clears and stays clear, the overflow was isolated. If F30 returns, inspect the drain hose and waste connection, and allow the base pan to dry completely before running the machine again.
Can I run my DishDrawer while F30 is showing?
No. Water in the base pan is in direct proximity to the control electronics. Don't attempt to restart the machine until the pan is dry and the cause has been addressed.
How long does it take for the F30 error to clear after fixing the cause?
The flood switch resets automatically once the base pan is dry. In a warm, ventilated kitchen this typically takes a few hours. F30 persisting after overnight drying suggests water is still present inside.
Is F30 the same as F1 on Fisher & Paykel dishwashers?
Both indicate flood switch activation, but F30 is specific to DishDrawer models and F1 appears on freestanding Fisher & Paykel dishwashers. The troubleshooting process is essentially the same for both.
When to Book a Technician
If the drain hose and waste connection are clear, the base pan has dried, but F30 keeps returning – there is an internal leak that requires professional diagnosis. Attempting to trace and repair an internal leak without appliance servicing experience can cause further damage.
National Appliance Repairs specialises in Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer repairs across Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Perth, and Adelaide. Their technicians are equipped to locate leaks, replace seals and hoses, and restore your machine to full operation. Call 1300 434 380 or book online.
Your LG washing machine has stopped mid-cycle with a two-letter code on the display. Before you start worrying, it's worth knowing that LG's system is more readable than most -- the letters usually abbreviate the fault. OE is outlet error. IE is inlet error. UE is unbalanced error. The pattern holds across the range, which means a quick read of the code often tells you roughly what's wrong before you've done anything else.
Some of these you can fix in five minutes. Others… you’ll need to call one of our technicians at National Appliance Repairs. The difference matters, so this guide covers each code -- what it means, what's likely causing it, and what to do next.
How the Error Code System Works
LG washers run sensors throughout the machine monitoring water intake, water levels, drum balance, door lock status, motor speed, and temperature. When a reading falls outside expected parameters for long enough, the control board stops the cycle and shows a code. The machine isn't broken in all cases -- sometimes it's flagging a temporary condition. But the code won't clear until the condition is resolved.
LG Washing Machine Error Code Reference Table
Error Code
What It Means
Usually DIY?
OE
Drainage problem -- water not draining
Sometimes
IE (or 1E)
Water inlet problem -- machine not filling
Sometimes
UE
Unbalanced load
Usually yes
LE
Motor or rotor position sensor fault
No
dE
Door not properly closed or latch faulty
Sometimes
tE
Temperature sensor (thermistor) fault
No
FE
Overfill -- too much water in drum
Sometimes
PE
Water level pressure sensor fault
No
CE
Motor overcurrent error
No
PF
Power failure mid-cycle
Usually yes
CL
Child lock active (not a fault)
Yes -- deactivate it
OE -- Drainage Error
The most commonly reported LG error in Australia. OE means water isn't draining within the timeframe the machine expects, so it stops to prevent overflow.
Start here:
Clean the drain pump filter. On most LG front-loaders it's behind a small access panel at the bottom front of the machine. Lay a towel down, unscrew the filter cap slowly, let the residual water drain out, and clear any lint, coins, or debris from the filter housing.
Check the drain hose at the back for kinks or sharp bends that restrict flow.
Check that the drain hose isn't inserted too far into the standpipe -- this can create a siphon effect that interferes with drainage.
LG's own support documentation recommends cleaning the drain filter monthly. Most OE errors clear after a filter clean. If the code returns with a clean filter and clear hose, the drain pump motor has likely failed and needs replacement by a technician.
IE -- Water Inlet Error
IE (shown as 1E on some older models) means the tub isn't filling with water within the allocated time. Usually a supply issue rather than anything wrong with the machine itself.
Check these first:
The tap at the back of the machine -- make sure it's fully open, not just partially turned
The inlet hose for kinks or bends
The mesh filter screens where the hose connects to the machine -- sediment and mineral deposits clog these over time, particularly in harder-water areas like regional Western Australia and parts of regional Queensland
Water pressure at the mains -- low pressure can trigger IE even with everything else correct
The Australian Drinking Water Guidelines note considerable variation in water mineral content across Australian states. In hard-water areas, inlet filter screens need cleaning more frequently than manufacturers typically suggest.
If supply and pressure check out fine, the inlet valve itself has likely failed. That's a parts replacement job.
UE -- Unbalanced Error
UE means the drum's load is distributed unevenly and the machine won't spin at full speed because of the vibration risk.
A lowercase "uE" means the machine is still trying to self-correct -- it'll add a small amount of water, agitate to redistribute the clothes, drain, and attempt spin again. Let it work through this before intervening. An uppercase "UE" means it failed three times and needs your help.
Open the door, redistribute the clothes evenly around the drum, and restart. Check the machine is level -- use a spirit level across the top and adjust the leg height with a spanner if needed.
If UE keeps appearing with well-distributed loads and a level machine, worn shock absorbers (front-loaders) or suspension rods (top-loaders) are the likely culprit. That's a mechanical repair. See our dedicated LG Washing Machine UE Error guide for a full walkthrough.
LE -- Motor Error
LE points to a problem with the rotor position sensor or the motor assembly. The sensor tells the control board the exact speed and position of the drum motor so it can fire the right induction coils in sequence. When the reading is missing or wrong, the machine stops rather than run the motor blind.
Not a DIY repair. Diagnosing LE involves testing the stator, rotor, and position sensor with a multimeter, and replacing whichever component has failed.
dE -- Door Error
The door interlock is a hard safety requirement -- the machine won't run with the door open or unlatched. A dE code means the control board hasn't received confirmation that the door is properly closed.
Try these:
Open the door and close it again firmly
Check for laundry caught in the door seal stopping it from closing fully
Inspect the door seal for damage
Look at the latch mechanism for wear or breakage
A worn or broken latch is a single-visit repair for a technician.
tE -- Temperature Sensor Fault
The thermistor monitors water temperature throughout the cycle. A tE code means it's reading outside the expected range -- or not reading at all. Without reliable temperature data, the machine won't heat water correctly, which matters most for cycles that rely on heat to sanitise -- towels, bed linen, nappies. This is a component replacement job.
FE -- Overfill Error
FE means the machine has detected water above the expected level in the drum. The usual cause is an inlet valve that isn't closing fully, allowing water to keep entering after the fill phase ends. A faulty water level pressure sensor can also produce FE. Turn the machine off at the power point if water looks visibly high in the drum, and call a technician before running another cycle.
PF -- Power Failure
PF records that the machine lost power mid-cycle -- a brief outage, a tripped breaker, or an accidental unplug. It's a record, not a fault. Press Power, restart the cycle, and it should run normally.
CL -- Child Lock
Not an error. CL means the child lock feature is active and the buttons are disabled. To turn it off, hold the temperature and eco/rapid buttons simultaneously for about three to four seconds. The exact combination varies by model -- check your manual if this doesn't work.
FAQ
How do I reset an LG washing machine error code?
Turn the machine off at the power point, wait 30 seconds, and turn it back on. If the error reappears straight away, the fault is still present and a reset won't help.
Why does my LG washing machine keep showing OE?
A blocked drain pump filter is the cause in most cases. Clean it first. If OE returns with a clean filter and clear drain hose, the pump motor has likely failed.
Can I use my LG washing machine with a dE error showing?
No. The machine won't start a cycle with the door unconfirmed closed -- it's a safety interlock. Fix the latch or seal before running a cycle.
What's the difference between tE and LE on an LG washer?
tE is a temperature sensor fault; LE is a motor or rotor position sensor fault. Both require a technician.
My LG washer shows CL -- is something wrong?
No. Child lock is active. Hold the relevant buttons for three to four seconds to turn it off.
Conclusion
LG's error code system rewards a quick read before reaching for the phone. OE, IE, and UE cover the majority of call-outs and most have a user-level fix to try first -- clean the drain filter, check the supply tap, redistribute the load. Motor faults (LE), sensor faults (tE, PE), and overfill errors (FE) are different -- those need a technician before the machine is run again. Wherever you are in Australia, National Appliance Repairs has LG-experienced technicians available across all major cities, with same-day bookings and a 12-month warranty on every part.
