LG Washing Machine OE Error: What It Really Means And Why Your Clothes Are Stuck

by Marsh | May 2, 2026 | Washing Machine Repair

An OE error on your LG washing machine means one thing that stops everything: water isn't leaving the drum. You've got a full tub of wet clothes and a machine that won't finish its cycle. It's frustrating, it's wet, and it needs fixing now.

Here's what we've learned from thousands of OE error calls across Australia: in 70% of cases, you can actually solve this yourself in under 30 minutes.

What the OE Error Actually Tells You (From Our Experience)

The OE code (sometimes displayed as "DE" depending on your LG model) is your washing machine's drainage error signal. The machine's sensors detected that water should have drained but didn't. That's it -- it's not a mysterious electrical problem, it's a plumbing issue.

After 15+ years of LG repairs in Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Perth, and Adelaide, we can tell you exactly what's happening inside that machine almost before we arrive.

The OE error means: Water is trapped. Find out why.

Your washing machine relies on a pump to actively push water out. If that pump can't do its job -- whether because the path is blocked, the pump is stuck, or the hose won't cooperate -- you get the OE code and a full tub.

What We Actually Find When We Diagnose OE Errors

The clogged drain pump filter. This is the most common culprit, especially in Australian homes. The filter sits at the bottom-left of most LG front-loaders, behind a small access panel. It traps lint, hair, coins, and debris before they reach the pump.

We open these things and find them absolutely packed. In one Brisbane home, we found a loose underwire from a bra wrapped around the impeller inside. In another Sydney apartment, there were three coins, a bobby pin, a pen cap, and enough lint to knit a small blanket.

The filter gets blocked, water can't flow into the pump, and the pump signals an error because it's trying to work but nothing's happening.

A kinked or blocked drain hose. The drain hose sits behind your machine, running from the tub to your sink drain or standpipe. If this hose gets kinked, twisted, or if something blocks it internally, water backs up in the drum.

We've found drain hoses compressed so tightly they were barely open. One customer in Adelaide had pushed her machine back against the wall, and the hose was crushed to maybe 30% of its normal diameter. Water was trickling out instead of flowing.

The drain hose installed backward. Some LG drain hoses have a built-in check valve (one-way flow). If someone reinstalled it during a move or renovation, they might have installed it backward. The valve now prevents water from flowing out.

A blocked drain system in your home. Sometimes it's not the washing machine at all. Your sink drain is clogged. Your home's plumbing has a blockage. The washing machine can pump water out, but it has nowhere to go, so it backs up into the tub.

We've had to refer customers to plumbers when the problem was their home's drainage system, not the LG.

Can You Fix This Yourself?

If the OE error appeared during the very first cycle after you filled the machine (meaning water was already in there before the cycle started), the problem is probably upstream -- your home's plumbing or the connection to the dishwasher if you have one.

If the OE error appears mid-cycle or after water has already been draining (you see water that's already dirty with soap), the problem is in the machine itself.

If you have a newer LG and the machine is still humming but not draining, the pump is engaged but blocked.

If you hear nothing -- total silence from the pump area -- the pump might not be engaging at all.

Step One: Stop the Cycle and Drain Manually

First, don't try another cycle. That water needs to come out.

Turn off your washing machine. Open the service panel (usually bottom-left corner, behind a small rectangular cover). You'll see a small drain hose with a cap or plug.

Place a bucket or shallow pan underneath. Unclip the hose and remove the cap carefully. Let water drain completely -- have towels ready because it can spill.

Once drained, proceed with troubleshooting.

Step Two: Clean the Drain Pump Filter (Fixes 60% of OE Errors)

This is where most OE problems solve themselves.

After you've drained the machine, look for the pump filter access. On most LG front-loaders, it's right there in the service panel area. You'll see a circular cap.

Turn it counterclockwise slowly (water might still be in there). Pull it out.

You'll find your culprit: lint, hair, debris, possibly small objects. In Australian homes, we frequently find coins and pieces of clothing labels.

Rinse everything under warm water. Use your fingers or an old toothbrush to clear the filter completely. The opening needs to be absolutely clear for water to flow.

Once clean and dry, screw the cap back in clockwise until snug. Don't over-tighten.

Now, run a spin-only cycle to test. The machine should drain without error.

If it works: You just fixed it. Congratulations.

Step Three: Inspect the Drain Hose

If the filter was clean but the machine still won't drain, the hose is your next suspect.

Unplug the washing machine first. Find where the drain hose connects at the back. Trace it to where it connects to your home's drain system.

Look for:

• Kinks or twists -- Straighten gently. A small kink is enough to block flow.
• The hose crushed against the wall -- Move the machine out slightly and reposition the hose
• Internal blockages -- If you suspect something's stuck inside, disconnect the hose at both ends (have a bucket ready) and run hot water through it

Check how it's positioned. The hose should rise from the machine, then descend into your drain. If it dips below the machine connection level, siphoning can prevent drainage.

Step Four: Check Your Home's Drain Connection

Make sure the drain hose isn't submerged in water inside your sink. If the end of the hose is sitting in standing water, that water can siphon back into the machine.

The hose should be inserted 5-10cm into the sink drain or standpipe, not submerged.

Also check: Is your kitchen sink draining slowly? If so, your home's plumbing is likely the culprit, not the washing machine. Clear the sink drain or contact a plumber.

Step Five: Run a Test Cycle

After addressing the filter or hose, unplug the machine for 5 minutes. This resets the error code.

Plug it back in and run a spin-only cycle. Listen for the pump to engage (you'll hear it humming). Watch to see if water actually drains.

If water drains and there's no error, you've fixed it.

OE Error Troubleshooting Guide

When the OE Error Keeps Coming Back

If you've cleaned the filter, straightened the hose, and checked your home's drainage but the OE error returns after 24 hours, you're dealing with something more complex:

The pump motor might be failing. If the pump is humming but water isn't moving, the impeller inside could be damaged or stuck.

The pressure sensor could be faulty. This sensor detects when water has drained. A broken sensor sends false signals to the control board.

The control board could be malfunctioning. The board tells the pump when to engage and when to stop. A glitch could prevent proper drainage signalling.

Your home's plumbing might have a deeper issue. A blockage in the main drain line requires a plumber, not an appliance technician.

This is when professional LG washing machine repair makes sense. Our technicians can diagnose whether it's a pump replacement, sensor issue, or a plumbing problem requiring a plumber.

National Appliance Repairs services all LG washing machine models and carries genuine replacement parts. We provide a 12-month parts warranty on all repairs.

What We've Learned From LG OE Errors Across Australia

• Hard water regions are worse. Adelaide especially has mineral buildup that accelerates filter clogging. We recommend running a tub clean cycle monthly in hard water areas.
• Coastal humidity matters. Sydney and Perth have higher moisture content in the air. Lint accumulates faster in humid climates. Clean the filter more frequently if you live near the coast.
• Older Australian homes with aging plumbing cause more OE errors than the washing machine itself. We've had to refer countless customers to plumbers when the issue was their home's drain system, not the LG.
• Using too much detergent creates suds that block the drain pump. This is the #2 cause of OE errors we see. HE washers especially require much less detergent than people use. If you're using a quarter-cup when you should be using a tablespoon, you're creating problems.
• Leaving small items in pockets is a real problem. Coins account for maybe 20% of the filter blockages we find. The coin itself doesn't block much, but it catches lint and hair around it, building a dam inside the filter.

Stop OE Errors From Happening

Simple habits prevent most OE errors:

• Clean the drain filter monthly if you run the machine frequently -- it takes 5 minutes
• Check pockets thoroughly before loading (coins, pens, bobby pins all end up in the filter)
• Use the correct detergent amount -- measure it, don't just guess. HE detergent should be 1-2 tablespoons per load, not a quarter-cup
• Run a tub clean cycle monthly to prevent buildup in the pump area
• Inspect the drain hose annually for kinks or damage
• Don't push the machine tight against the wall -- leave at least 10cm of space behind for the drain hose to breathe
• Run hot water cycles occasionally to help flush mineral deposits (especially important in Adelaide and hard water regions)

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the OE error always fixable without calling a technician?

About 70% of the time, yes. Clogged filter or kinked hose are DIY-fixable. If the filter is clean and the hose is straight, you're looking at a pump issue that needs professional service.

What's the difference between OE and IE error codes?

OE is drainage (water won't come out). IE is inlet (water won't come in). OE is more common and usually fixable. IE often requires inlet valve repair.

Should I keep trying to run cycles while the OE error is happening?

No. Stop using the machine. Each cycle adds water that can't drain, risking overflow or water damage. Drain manually first, then troubleshoot.

How do I prevent the OE error from coming back?

Clean the filter monthly, check the drain hose yearly, and use the correct amount of detergent. Too much detergent creates suds that block the drain.

Is a clogged filter an expensive fix?

Not expensive. It's free if you clean it yourself (takes 5 minutes). If we do it professionally, it's just a service call fee ($100-150). No parts replacement needed.

The Bottom Line

The OE error is your LG's way of saying "I'm trying to drain but something's stopping me." In most cases, that something is a clogged filter or kinked hose -- both things you can fix yourself in 30 minutes.

Start there. Clean the filter. Straighten the hose. Test the cycle.

If the error persists, call National Appliance Repairs for professional diagnosis.

Call 1300 434 380 to book service in your area (Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Perth, Adelaide). Our office team is available Monday-Friday 8:30 AM–7:00 PM, Saturday 8:30 AM–4:30 PM.

We can usually diagnose an OE error over the phone and tell you whether it's a DIY fix or something we need to handle. And if it's the pump, we'll get you back to clean laundry quickly with a 12-month warranty on the repair.

Washing Machine Not Draining in Brisbane? 5 Most Common Causes

by Marsh | Apr 28, 2026 | Washing Machine Repair

Standing water has turned your washing machine’s drum into a pool at the end of the cycle, and your wet clothes are sitting there as you stare at what could be a flooded laundry room in the next few hours.

National Appliance Repairs get this call all the time. And here's the thing -- it's usually one of five problems. Most of them you can fix yourself.

Why Brisbane Washers Clog More

Brisbane's humidity and hard water are a bad combination. Hard water leaves mineral deposits. Humidity means lint builds up in drain lines. Then you're running washers more frequently because of sweat-soaked clothes. All of that compound, and a slow-draining washing machine becomes no-drain.

1. Clogged Pump Filter

This is the number-one culprit. Front-load washers have a filter that catches coins, buttons, lint, debris and over time, this filter can clog up with debris and detritus. At some point, the filter becomes so tight that water barely flows through.

Good thing you can check the filter yourself! Most Samsung, LG, Bosch models have the filter on the lower front. Before you open it up, place towels down (expect a lot of water to spill from the machine), twist the access cap counter-clockwise, and let the water drain into a shallow pan. Pull out the filter, rinse it, and reinstall the same way you took it out. Takes 10 minutes, but will save you from an expensive service call.

2. Kinked or Blocked Drain Hose

The hose runs from the back of your washer to the standpipe or wall drain. If it kinks, bends sharply, or gets crushed between the machine and wall, water can't flow. So pull the washer away from the wall and take a look at the hose to see if there’s any sharp bend or kink along its length.

If the hose looks clear visually but water still won't drain, disconnect it from both ends (have a bucket ready to catch water). Lay the hose on the ground or in the bath and pour water in from the top end. If water flows out the other end freely, the hose is fine. If it backs up or dribbles, the blockage is inside the hose. You can try to clear up the hose, but the easiest fix is to simply replace it.

3. Faulty Drain Pump

Water is drained out of the drum with a pump. If this pump fails, nothing will drain. You’ll hear humming or buzzing during the drain cycle -- that's the pump struggling. Sometimes small items jam the pump impeller. Sometimes the motor burns out. Either way, the pump isn't moving water.

Listen during the drain cycle. Is there noise? Is water 100% not moving (sometimes it just drains slowly)? This is where you need professional help.

4. Your Home Drainage Is Blocked

Sometimes it’s not the washer itself that’s the problem, but your house’s plumbing. If water backs up and overflows from the standpipe during the drain cycle, the clog is in your home’s drain line.

Try pouring hot water down the standpipe. If it backs up, call a plumber. You can also use a drain snake (about $25) to try and clear the blockage yourself, or pour enzyme-based drain cleaner down the pipe.

5. Lid Switch or Door Latch Failure

Top-load machines won't drain unless the lid is properly closed. If the lid switch is faulty, the machine stops mid-cycle without draining. Front-loaders have a similar issue with the door latch. Check your error codes. Codes like F5 E2 (Whirlpool) or dE (LG) point directly to latch problems.

Press against the lid and try pressing the button. If it still doesn’t work, the lid may not have a professional inspection and a replacement.

Maintenance That Actually Works

Here are some habits that you should really get into for a long-lasting washer.

FAQ

What does drain pump replacement cost?

The part runs $150-250. Including labour, expect $300-450 total. Much cheaper than replacing a $1,200+ washing machine.

Can I use chemical drain cleaners on my washer?

No. They damage rubber seals, plastic components, and the pump impeller. Use white vinegar and baking soda instead. Or call a professional.

Is some water in the drum after a cycle normal?

Less than a cup in a front-loader is normal. More than that means drainage issues. Top-loaders should drain almost completely.

My washer drains then stops mid-cycle with an error code. What's happening?

That's a sensor or intermittent drainage problem. The machine detects an issue during the cycle. Usually a partial clog that gets worse as more water tries to flow through. You'll need a diagnosis.

Should I keep trying DIY fixes or call someone?

If the filter is clear, the hose is straight, and water still won't drain, call a professional. Repeated DIY attempts at pump removal risk breaking other parts. One diagnostic call is cheaper than a broken pump.

Book a Diagnostic

If your washer is sitting full of water and you've ruled out the pump filter and drain hose, National Appliance Repairs can diagnose what's actually wrong.

We service Brisbane and surrounds. Most cases are same-day appointments.

Call 1300 434 380 or check your postcode on our Service Areas page.

Washing Machine Smells: What Our Technicians Actually Find (And What Actually Fixes It)

by Marsh | Apr 27, 2026 | Washing Machine Repair

That musty, moldy smell coming from your washing machine isn't just annoying -- it's telling you something specific about what's happening inside. And after 15+ years of service calls across Australia, we can tell you exactly what it is.

Here's what we've learned from opening thousands of washing machines, and what actually fixes the problem instead of just masking it.

What That Smell Actually Means

Your washing machine is the perfect storm for mold, mildew, and bacteria. It's dark. It's damp. It gets fed a diet of dirt and detergent. Add in moisture trapped in seals and hoses, and you've got ideal conditions for microbial growth.

• But the smell itself is actually diagnostic. After countless service calls, we can narrow down the problem by how it smells.
• A musty, moldy smell? Mildew or bacterial growth. This is the most common complaint, especially in front-load machines and in Australian homes with high humidity (Sydney, Perth, coastal areas).
• A rotten or sewage-like odor? This one worries us. It usually points to a drainage issue. Either the drain hose is blocked, frozen, or positioned incorrectly, creating a siphon trap. Or you've got a plumbing backup from your home's drain system. This one sometimes needs a plumber, not just us.
• A sour smell? Almost always excess detergent or softener buildup. We see this constantly in HE machines where people ignore the dosing instructions. The machine isn't rinsing completely, so residue ferments inside.
• Burning or electrical smell? Stop using it immediately and call us. This isn't normal and suggests an electrical or motor issue.

The Obvious Checks First

Before you panic about internal mold colonies, verify the simple things first.

Is the door sealing completely?

Close the door and run your hand around the seal. Does it feel tight or loose? For front-loaders, try to pull a piece of paper from between the gasket and the door frame. If it slides out easily, the seal isn't working.

A faulty seal lets bacteria-filled moisture escape. It also allows humid air back into the drum, feeding the bacteria. Clean the gasket first with warm soapy water. If that doesn't help, you might need a new seal.

Are you leaving the door closed after cycles?

This is the single biggest cause of washer smell problems we see. If you close the door immediately after removing laundry, moisture gets trapped. That moisture has nowhere to go, and bacteria thrives.

Leave the door open for at least 2-3 hours after every cycle (longer in humid climates). Leave the detergent drawer open too. This prevents 70% of smell problems.

Are you using the right amount of detergent?

HE (high-efficiency) machines require much less detergent than top-loaders. If you're using a quarter-cup when you should be using a tablespoon, excess soap residue ferments and creates that sour smell. Check your detergent bottle for the correct dosage and follow it exactly.

The Australian Climate Factor (Why Coastal Homes Are Worse)

We service Sydney, Perth, Brisbane, Adelaide, and Melbourne, and honestly? Coastal humidity is brutal on washing machines.

Sydney and Perth get absolutely hammered with salt air and moisture. Adelaide's hard water creates different problems. Melbourne's older homes often have poorly ventilated laundry areas. Brisbane's summer humidity means moisture is trapped for longer periods.

Front-load washing machines (which most Australians have now) are especially vulnerable. They use less water than top-loaders and have airtight seals that trap moisture. That combination in a humid climate? Perfect conditions for odor-causing bacteria.

If you live within 10km of the coast or in a climate with regular humidity above 60%, open your washer door and detergent drawer immediately after every cycle. Don't close them for at least 2-3 hours. This single change prevents 70% of the smell problems we see.

What We Find When We Open Them Up

• The rubber gasket (front-loaders). This seal around the door traps moisture, lint, hair, soap scum, and all the conditions mold loves. We regularly find black sludgy buildup so bad that customers are shocked it didn't grow legs and walk away.
• The gasket is the #1 problem area. It's also usually the #1 preventable problem. Just wiping it weekly with a dry cloth would eliminate most of these calls.
• The detergent drawer. Nobody cleans this. Ever. It's a pocket of soap residue, moisture, and mold that becomes its own ecosystem. We've found drawers that smell worse than the drum itself. This is fixable in 10 minutes and prevents months of problems.
• The drain filter (front-loaders). Most front-loaders have a small filter that catches lint, hair, coins, and foreign objects. It's supposed to be cleaned regularly. We find filters so clogged that water can barely flow through. Trapped water + trapped debris = bacteria heaven.
• Inside the drum itself. Sometimes the mold has colonized the actual drum surface. This happens when cycles are run in cold water constantly (which we see a lot in Australian homes trying to save energy) because cold water doesn't kill bacteria.
• The drain hose. Blocked or kinked drain hoses mean water sits inside longer, giving bacteria time to grow. We've found drain hoses that are basically mold tubes.

The Cleaning Method That Actually Works

We don't believe in fabric fresheners or one-time cleaning sprays. That's just masking the problem until the smell comes back (usually within weeks).

Here's what actually works:

Step One: Clean the Rubber Gasket (Front-Loaders)

This is non-negotiable. Open the door and pull back the rubber gasket around the edge. You'll find debris and probably black sludge.

Remove it with a damp cloth or old toothbrush. Use a 1:1 vinegar and water solution for stubborn spots. Don't be gentle -- scrub thoroughly. Dry completely with a clean cloth when finished.

Why vinegar? It's acidic enough to break down mineral deposits and dissolve detergent residue, and it actually kills many odor-causing bacteria. It's not a bandaid -- it's addressing the actual problem.

Leave the door open between cycles. This is crucial. Closing it immediately after removing laundry traps moisture and restarts the cycle.

Step Two: Clean the Detergent Dispenser

Remove the drawer (your manual shows how). Soak it in hot water for 30 minutes. Scrub away all residue with an old toothbrush. Rinse completely and let it dry before reinstalling.

This takes 10 minutes and prevents months of buildup. We've seen customers' smell problems disappear just from cleaning the drawer.

Step Three: Run a Deep Cleaning Cycle

Most modern washers have a self-cleaning or cleaning cycle (check your manual). It runs hot water and sometimes allows you to add a cleaning agent.

Add 2 cups of white distilled vinegar to an empty machine (no clothes, no detergent) and run the longest, hottest cycle available. If your machine doesn't have a dedicated cleaning cycle, use the hottest water setting and longest cycle.

Vinegar breaks down mineral deposits, dissolves detergent residue, and kills many odor-causing bacteria.

If the smell persists (stubborn cases), run the cycle again with 1 cup of baking soda instead. Some people alternate -- vinegar one week, baking soda the next -- for thorough cleaning. This works.

We always tell customers who are skeptical to try it out once. If the smell is still there after the vinegar cycle, then we'll talk about professional cleaning. But honestly, we've solved 85% of smell complaints with just vinegar.

Step Four: Clean the Drain Filter (Front-Loaders)

Most front-load washers have a filter you can access. Consult your manual for the exact location (usually at the bottom front).

Unplug the machine. Look for a small drain hose to release remaining water first. Then remove the filter. You'll find lint, hair, coins, and debris trapped inside.

Rinse everything under warm water and scrub with a soft brush. Reinstall when clean.

This is a monthly maintenance task if you run multiple loads per week. It prevents the drain hose from becoming clogged.

Step Five: Inspect the Drain Hose

If sewer-like odors persist, the drain hose might be the issue.

Most machines have a drain hose running from the tub to your home's drain system. Check that it's positioned correctly. It should rise from the machine first (preventing siphon), then descend into the drain.

Make sure the hose isn't kinked or blocked. A kinked drain hose prevents water from flowing out, creating standing water where bacteria and mold thrive.

If you find a kink, straighten it gently. If you suspect internal blockage, disconnect at both ends (have a bucket ready) and run warm water through it.

What We Know From 15+ Years of Service Calls

• Cold water cycles are the enemy. We see customers running everything in cold water to save energy. Cold water doesn't kill bacteria. If you're experiencing persistent odors, run at least one hot water cycle per month with your laundry, or dedicate one load per week to hot water. This alone fixes roughly 40% of smell problems.
• HE detergent dosing is critical. Most people use too much. HE (high-efficiency) detergent is concentrated. Using the recommended dose matters. If you're using a capful when you should be using 1 teaspoon, you're creating buildup that becomes bacterial food.
• Fabric softeners are terrible for washers. We don't recommend them. They leave a waxy residue that traps bacteria and causes buildup. If you're using fabric softener and experiencing odors, stop immediately. The smell usually improves within 3-4 cycles.
• Leaving wet laundry in the machine is the fastest path to mildew. Even 2-3 hours is enough in Australian humidity. If you forget, run the machine empty with vinegar to kill the bacteria that started growing.
• Top-loaders in older Australian homes are different. They get better air circulation, which is why they're less prone to odors. But they can still develop problems if the water connection is kinked or the drain is positioned poorly. We've found drains in 1970s Australian homes that were installed at the wrong angle, causing water to pool.

Try to Get Into These Habits to Avoid Washing Machine Smells

Once you've eliminated the smell, keep it from coming back:

• Remove wet laundry immediately after the cycle ends. Don't let it sit even for an hour. Set a phone reminder if you need to.
• Leave the door open between cycles (front-loaders especially). This is the single most important prevention step.
• Use the right amount of detergent. Follow the dosing instructions exactly. More detergent leaves more residue.
• Clean the machine monthly with the vinegar cycle. This takes 90 minutes and prevents 90% of smell problems.
• Wipe the gasket every few weeks with a dry cloth. This catches buildup before it becomes a problem.
• Run hot water cycles occasionally. At least once a month. Cold water doesn't kill bacteria.
• Use HE detergent in HE machines. Regular detergent creates excess suds and residue.
• Don't overload the machine. Tight packing prevents proper water circulation and rinsing.
• Check your drain hose annually. Make sure it's not kinked and positioned correctly.

Smell Diagnosis & Fix Guide

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does the vinegar cleaning cycle take?

Most machines take 90 minutes on a normal or hot water cycle. Some newer models have dedicated cleaning cycles that run faster. Check your manual for a "tub clean" or "cleaning" cycle if available.

Is vinegar safe to use in my washing machine?

Yes. White distilled vinegar is safe for all machine types and rubber seals. It naturally breaks down mineral deposits and kills odor-causing bacteria. Never use bleach with vinegar as it creates toxic gas.

Why does my front-loader smell more than my top-loader?

Front-loaders have airtight seals that trap moisture, creating a perfect environment for bacteria. Top-loaders have less seal and more air circulation. Front-loaders in humid climates are especially vulnerable.

Will fabric freshener fix the problem?

No. Fabric fresheners mask the smell temporarily, but the bacteria keeps growing underneath. Once the freshener effect wears off (usually 1-2 cycles), the smell returns. You must address the root cause.

How often should I run the vinegar cleaning cycle?

Monthly for frequent users, quarterly for occasional users. In coastal or tropical climates, run it twice monthly. This prevents smell from building up in the first place.

The Bottom Line

A washing machine that smells bad forces you to rewash loads or use fabric fresheners to mask the problem. Neither solution actually fixes the issue.

Start with the cleaning cycle and gasket cleaning today. Most of the time, that's all you need. We've solved thousands of smell complaints with just vinegar and better habits.

If the smell returns quickly, or if you suspect a drainage or internal component issue, call National Appliance Repairs for a professional diagnosis.

Call 1300 434 380 to book service in your area (Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Perth, Adelaide). Our office team is available Monday-Friday 8:30 AM–7:00 PM, Saturday 8:30 AM–4:30 PM.

Your clothes deserve to come out of the wash smelling clean. And you deserve a washing machine that actually cleans without adding its own unpleasant odors to the mix. We've helped thousands of Australians solve this problem, and we can help you too.